What not to do when training your dog

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What do YOU expect

I read an article recently over at Ruffly Speaking that has been percolating in my head awhile. That happens alot. I read something and it gets stuck in my head and drifts around gathering other thoughts to go along with it. Then I need to regurgitate it so I can be free again. Lucky you gets to read the result. It was about our expectations of dogs. What do we now consider a well trained dog? With the face of training having changed so much in the last few years has this affected our expectations at all? Do we expect more or less from our dogs? I thought I would go through the questions from the post and answer them here. A) Because they are great questions and B) Because I couldnt seem to get my comments to post there. (which was frustrating)

1) Is it in fact normal for dogs to endlessly tolerate everything? No. That is not normal behavior and I do think some people expect dogs to tolerate far to much. They are not stuffed animals for kids to poke and prod as they like. They are living creatures with their own language, which humans ignore far to often out of ignorance. Growling is good! It means the dog is uncomfortable so get away from it. People need to STOP punishing this behavior in dogs! I raised both of my kids with the sentence "If the dog bites you its your fault, so leave them alone." I also used baby gates to give the dogs an area away from the kids when I felt it was needed. (and taught the dog to jump it to get away when they wanted to as well)


2) Are we insisting that dogs be perfect when they’re not in fact perfect? Where is the place for the dog who’s just plain grouchy, and it’s not a training error but personality? I think some people are expecting that perfection, yes. I think there is a place for grouchy dogs but hopefully it is in a home where the owner knows the dogs personality so they can keep them safe. Grumpy dogs dont want to be social so dont force them to be.


3) Are we doing justice to owners by implying that this new expectation of behavior is valid for all dogs? (To use a specific example, saying that we can “help” their terrier not chase cats, or “help” their chow not react to other dogs.) I think a trainers job is to explain to owners how dogs communicate and teach them why dogs do what they do so they understand their dog better. That is more helpful to the dog in the long run. Giving the dog some skills can help make living with their issues easier OR teach the owners some management skills. No, we are not doing anyone justice with a blanket statement about what we can teach all dogs. It is a case by case issue because all dogs are individuals. Every owner has certain expectations. Sometimes we as trainers need to readjust them slightly to meet with the reality of the dog they actually have.

4) Why exposure and not avoidance? That is, if you have a dog who lunges at other dogs, why is the answer to “helping” that dog (and yes, I do keep putting helping in quotes because that’s how I ALWAYS hear it used now – it’s not training, it’s “helping,” implying that the dog WANTS this help and is incomplete without this help) going out and finding 40 other dogs to expose the dog to (whether in a class or in a park or whatever) and not avoiding other dogs? Why is one right and one wrong? I think this depends on the dog and owner. Does the owner need or want to be able to walk their dog without the lunging at other dogs issue? Management with avoidance is fine if that is what the owner wants to do. I also think some owners do use avoidance. Is it right or wrong? I dunno, to bad we cant ask the dogs. I think its referred to as helping because in many cases its a fearful reaction which is stressful. If we can teach the dog they have noting to fear then there is less stress. We want to help our dogs by not being stressed. It also isnt training as much as behavior modification. Training to me means teaching specifics like sit, down, come, and stay. Specific body positions or maybe tricks. Things that are on a verbal cue. To teach a dog not to lunge (if its fear for instance) is done by changing the emotion of the event. (but in reality it might not be fear so figuring out the "why" for the lunging can be important)


5) Do we need a revival in an understanding of “dogginess”? (A celebration of Jungian dog archetypes, if you want to get fancy-dancy?) Can we re-find the validity of the warrior dog, messenger dog, defender dog, hunting dog in our own backyards? Yes to the first part. We need to educate people in what is normal dog behavior. That is tough tho given there is SO many myths and wives tales still kicking around and moving faster these days over the internet. Not to mention the questionable trainers and slick methods for sale out there. There are no magic wands. (Sometimes it takes time to change a dogs behavior.) Some of us are TRYING hence the many blogs and websites about dog behavior. Sadly only those who want to learn more are looking for the info, and not all of the average pet owners. I cant count how many times I have heard "Well my friend said....." or "My hairdresser did this....." and "I saw it on this show......." When our car breaks down we dont ask our hairdresser to fix it, so why are we listening to them for dog behavior advice???

The second part of this is trickier. I think yes we have need for some of the breeds to retain their original design and job description. However, we cant regulate who owns those working breeds and thats why they end up in inappropriate homes so often. So do we water down all breeds to make dogs easier for the average owner to own for that reason? I dunno. When I mentioned (years ago on an e-mail list back when those were popular) changing akitas so they werent so tough on other dogs (aggressive to other dogs is written IN their breed standard) I was told if I wanted a Golden Retriever temperament I should get a GR. But does out society have a place for dogs who want to kill other dogs on sight? Shouldnt we breed away from that? Is there any reason to keep that particular trait? Would it really change the breed for the negative to take that one thing out of the breed? You would be surprised at how many people say dont change the breed. (I am not one of them for the record hence the reason Jack is probably my last akita after almost 20 years in the breed.) Sadly many people tend to choose dogs based on looks and dont look for a dog that fits their lifestyle. Maybe we need a new search engine for dog adopters. Example: Do you want a couch potato or hiking companion?
What is a well trained dog to me? That is easier. I think depends on what you want to live with. For me it is some of the following:
No jumping on visitors.
No yanking me around on leash when walking.
One that can be in public and be calm.
No darting through the door. 
Coming when called.
Leaving something alone when I tell them to.
Staying when told to.
House and crate trained.

Those are things I prefer my dogs to do to make my life easier. But I also expect my dogs to act like dogs. If they are meeting a strange dog and they get snarky because the other dog gets in their face to quick that is ok. They are being a normal dog. If Jack chases a bike down his fence and barks that is ok. He is being a dog. If they dont do something the first time I ask, that is ok too. They are dogs! They dont always jump to our whim just because we want them to! Motivation is key and distractions come into play.

What defines "well trained" is a matter of personal opinion. I know there are other trainers who dont think my dogs are well trained because I dont compete in traditional obedience to show off those specific skills. Jack doesnt know a proper heel position for instance. Yet I can walk him without being dragged down the road. To me he is well trained, to others not so much.

Here is another question: When is well trained a detriment? Is there such a thing? For example, the photo above is Jenny and her friend Prudence from a beach walk earlier this evening. Walking on the beach is a new thing for me and Jenny. I have walked my dogs off leash in the past sporadically. It is usually somewhere private and only with other dogs I know are good in groups. I am very careful for my dogs safety. It has been awhile since Jenny has had this sort of off leash outing however. It was very apparent because once the leash was unhooked she heeled along with me alot. It took encouragement and lots of running by of Prudence before she would venture away from me at all. It made me a little sad that she wouldnt run and play like a normal dog. But it is my fault for taking her for walks and reinforcing her heeling so much. It has become her default position. The good news is that she will get the hang of running away with practice. (How ironic of a sentence is that?) By the end of the outing she was wading in the scary ocean (why is the water chasing me??) and sniffing lots of seaweed.

So what is your defination of a well trained dog? Do you think our expectations of dog behavior has changed over the years? Is the average owner to intolerant as a whole of normal dog behavior? What do you see?

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Do you have a hyperactive dog

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House Training Issues why do our dogs use the inside of our homes to eliminate

Poncho and I have both been receiving questions regarding dogs - both puppy and adult- and house-training issues. Poncho answered one question more in-depth for our Noozhawk column, but I thought Id address it myself.

As we all know, or youll soon learn, dogs arent known to generalize behaviors we want - this includes "knowing" the proper place to go potty. Sure, theyve learned where to go where they live, but often times when you take them to a new location, they need to be re-taught. And, sometimes you need to re-teach those skills in even where they live. 

House-training basics should be instilled whenever a dog goes to a new place. Meaning, take the dog where you want him or her to eliminate, wait until they do just that, then reward them - using a yummy treat, petting, praise, and allowing them either freedom off the leash or getting to go inside the house/building etc... With consistency, the dog will learn that the trend of going outside is the better choice.

I have my students use this approach whenever they bring their dog to my Inquisitive Canine studio for classes or socials. Their dog is to go potty outside, and the reward is a treat and getting to come in for class. The first couple of times take a little longer (this is why I ask folks to arrive early), but once the dog "gets it", theyre more likely to get their business done so they can come in for class. Its nice to see pooches that excited about going to school.

One other topic Ill mention regarding house-training is "texture" or "substrate" of the type of surface where a dog will usually eliminate. If theyre used to a specific surface, then it changes, they might be "confused" and not "go potty" immediately. Take for instance wet grass vs dry. Its been raining out here (finally), so getting dogs out into the rain to potty may be a whole new experience for them - you might need to get out the treats, leash (to manage them from wandering off exploring other things) and take them outside yourself. Using some of your basic house-training techniques will help set them up for success - and help prevent you having to clean up.

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Do protein levels in dog food matter

Like everything else in the dog behavior world the answer is, well that depends. Ive been searching for a while for information regarding protein levels in dog food affecting behavior. I knew I had heard about a possible link to high protein causing or exacerbating problems like aggression and hyperactivity but I couldnt put my finger on where the info came from originally. (Though I am quite sure Dr. Dodman had spoken about the subject at the seminar I attended.) I did some internet searching here and there but nothing came back that answered my questions specifically. (Many veterinary sites are private which didnt help.)

Fast forward to a discussion with a dog food rep recently and I asked her if she had heard about the possible aggression link. She said she had some info she could send me. Well it arrived today so I am going to type out the part of the report that deals with the protein level question. This is the closest I have come to the information I was looking for. It is long because I am including the whole section because there is other info included that I found relevant to dog training as well. The references are listed in the article and included at the end of the article. I highlighted a couple tidbits I found interesting.

This is an excerpt from "Dietary effects on canine and feline behavior" by Katherine A. Houpt, VMD, PhD and Steven Zicker, DVM, PhD. (Taken from The Veterinary Clinics Small Animal Practice book 2003)

Effect on canine aggression:

An interesting effect of food on behavior is the motivation of dogs for different foods. A hierarchy can be constructed based on the frequency with which dogs display aggression over a particular food. Most dogs aggressively defend rawhides. Next in attraction is any human food, bones, and toys. A few dogs guard their ordinary ration of food, and fewer still protect their water dish. (Fig. 1) From the blog author: Figure 1 is a bar graph showing the percentage of dogs that guard, to the resources listed with the highest bar at Rawhide, table, bone, toy, biscuit, dog food, and water in descending order. Table equaled human food.

A standard instruction to owners of aggressive dogs is to obtain dominance over the dogs by eating before the dog is fed. Forcing the dog to wait to be fed results in more food begging and general unruliness at dinnertime. Furthermore, it seems highly unlikely that the dogs equate the people seated at the table eating salad with a fork and drinking wine from a glass with a pack of dogs vying for a bite from a carcass. In fact, Jagoe and Serpell [14] found that dogs that were fed after their owners were more likely to be aggressive to strangers.

There have been two studies directly testing the hypothesis that higher protein diets lead to aggression. The first compared scores for two types of aggression and hyperactivity. The types of aggression were territorial and dominance. Owners scored the dogs on a 10-point scale, where 0 was no aggression and 10 was uncontrollable aggression when strangers entered the house (territorial) or when the dog bit, lunged at, or chased family members, becoming worse with disciplined (dominance) in many circumstances.

The diets were 10%, 25%, and 32% protein, which corresponds to 2, 3, or 4 g of protein per kilogram of body weight, and were fed for 2 weeks. Fat was substituted for protein in the lower protein diets. There was no significant effect on dominance aggression and a trend toward decreased aggression when the dogs were fed the higher protein diet. Aggression toward strangers was significantly greater when the dogs were fed the higher protein diet. Within that group were dogs that were offensively aggressive and dogs that were defensively (or fearful) aggressive. The fearful dogs improved most when fed the lower protein diets. Control dogs were scored for the same behavior and showed no change in score with diet. [15]

(Sidebar by blog author: True dominance aggression tends to be directed towards the owners and NOT people outside of the home. This is one clue that helps us diagnose it as such. True dominance aggression is also the more rarely seen of all the types of canine aggression.)

In the second study, there were four diets, high (30%) and low (18%) protein with or without 1.45 g of tryptophan per kilogram of diet added to the basal diet of 0.15% tryptophan per kilogram. The significant effects were that dominant aggressive dogs fed high-protein diets without tryptophan were more aggressive than those fed the other three diets and that dogs fed the low-protein diet plus the tryptophan were less territorially aggressive. There were no dietary effects on fearfulness, hyperactivity, or excitability [16]. Diets formulated for dogs with renal disease and some commercial diets for normal dogs are lower in protein than the low-protein diets tested and may be more effective. On the basis of the Dodman et al [15] and DaNapoli et al [16] studies, lower (18%) protein diets should be recommended for aggressive dogs. This is in contrast to earlier suggestions that high-protein diets might improve behavior [17].

The reason why low-protein diets and tryptophan may reduce aggression is that tryptophan is the precursor of serotonin; it is converted by tryptophan hydroxylase to 5-hydroxytryptophan, which in turn, is converted to 5-hydroxytryptamine or serotonin. Serotonin is a neurotransmitter associated with feelings of well-being and satiety. Tryptophan is found in low concentration (<1%) in most protein sources. It must compete with other large neutral amino acids for a common blood-brain barrier transporter mechanism. Increasing dietary tryptophan increases brain serotonin. The lower the protein level the diet, the higher is the ratio of tryptophan to large neutral amino acids and tryptophan transport to the brain. Tryptophan has been shown to decrease aggression in chickens [18] and primates [19]. Care must be taken when adding amino acids to a diet however, because an imbalance in amino acids and consequent anorexia could result [20].

[14] Jagoe J, Serpell J. Owner characteristics and interactions and the prevalence of canine behavior problems. Appl Anim Behav Sci 1996; 47:31-42.
[15] Dodman NH, Reisner I, Shuster L, et al. Effect of dietary protein content on behavior in dogs. JAVMA 2000; 217:376-9
[16] DeNapoli JS, Dodman NH, Shuster L, et al. Effect of dietary protein content and tryptophan supplementation on dominance aggression, territorial aggression, and hyperactivity in dogs, JAVMA 2000; 217:504-508.
[17] Campbell WE, Behavior problems in dogs. Santa Barbara (CA): American Veterinary Publications; 1975
[18] Shea MM, Douglass LW, Mench JA. The interaction of dominance status and supplemental tryptophan on aggression in Gallus domesticus males, Pharmacol Biochem Behav 1991; 38:587-91
[19] Mehlman PT, Higley JD, Faucher I, et al. Low CSF 5-HIAA concentrations and severe aggression and impaired impulse control in nonhuman primates. Am J Psychiatry 1994; 151:1485-91
[20] Gietzen DW, Duke CM, Hammer VA. Amino acid imbalance, a nutritional model: serotonin & mediation of aversive responses. Physiol Behav 1991;49:981-5.

Now I know there is some discussion on the TYPE of protein being important. These tests were done with dogs using a kibble based diet. I know raw feeders do not typically find this a concern because of the difference in how the protein is digested and processed. If anyone has more recent studies to refer to I would love to hear about them.

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Food Stuffing Type Dog Toys What the heck do I do with this thing

You may have purchased one of those great interactive food stuffing toys for your dog, right? Maybe one of those red cone-shaped ones from the Kong Company? And you put some of your dogs kibble with a little peanut butter in it, gave it to him or her, and left it at that. But what now? What else can you do with it? OMG theres just SO much! As a matter of fact, I teach an entire class on stuffing food toys, and other types of "enrichment" at my inquisitive canine studio. 

I love feeding my own dog Poncho out of these, and other "interactive" food toys. He enjoys eating his meals out of them as well - I can tell because he goes into his "whirling dervish" mode every time I get one out of the freezer...yes, the freezer - hes at what I call "University Level". Pre-school would be dry kibble topped off with a little wet food. 

The Kong Company is nice enough to supply you with lots of tips and advice on great ways to use your dogs Kong toys. For me, I like coming up with my own "recipes" (okay, I think of them more of concoctions) with anything and everything that is either leftover from me and my hubby, or whatever I find in the fridge that needs to be eaten. 

Because the Kongs are relatively small on the inside, you arent able to put an entire meal in just one. So, like we humans have sets of dishes, I have purchased a few Kongs of the same size and consider them Ponchos "dishes". I might just give him one, along with his other favorite food toy the Tricky Treat Ball. And of course he gets his veggies in his bowl - there are some veggies in his Kong mixture, but most of them end up in his bowl...I think the veggies are the only thing Ill feed him from his bowl. 

Okay, so what all do I put in it? And how do I do it? Simple...for the easiest "recipe" I combine the following ingredients*:

• Kibble (high quality like Solid Gold or Wellness)
• Canned wet food (high quality like Solid Gold or Wellness)
• Leftover veggies: canned pumpkin, zucchini, asparagus, bell peppers, carrots, peas, broccoli, cauliflower, summer squash etc...and anything else that might be around that he likes.
• Fruit: apples, pears, berries (or whatever is around that he likes)
• Grains: leftover brown rice, whole wheat pasta, couscous, quinoa, sweet and regular potatoes...and anything else leftover that he likes. 
• Meat: scraps of whatever we have leftover
• Dairy: plain non-fat yoghurt

I mix it all together, making sure there is enough kibble (which has many of Ponchos doggy specific required nutrients) and wet stuff to make it the consistency of a human type chicken salad. I add a little chicken broth or water to thin it out a bit. Then, I cover and refrigerate it overnight. This way, the kibble soaks up the water from the veggies etc...makes it a little stiffer, for easier stuffing. 

Now Im ready to prepare Ponchos meals. I take one of his Kong toys, and using a small fork or spoon, I fill it tightly with his "casserole". I then wrap it in plastic wrap, and put it in the freezer. This way, I can make a whole bunch of them, and keep them for when I need them. When theyre frozen, it takes him longer to go through one...instead of gulping down a meal in 10 seconds!

If youre just starting out, youll want to have your dog go through all the "stages" - beginners level (pre-school) to "University". If you start with a more difficult level, your dog might get frustrated and not want anything to do with it. Making it easy gets him or her conditioned to loving their Kong. They begin to associate the toy with more excitement than just the food itself. Its a fun game for them - plus again, this action taps into their predatory drive, and gives them something to do! 

Here are some "level of difficulty" suggestions, which are based upon how quickly your dog can get the food out:

1. Beginner: dry kibble (can add in some dry treats to make it extra tasty and enticing), top off hole with wet food.
2. Intermediate I: mix kibble with a little wet food, add any leftovers you want, loosely pack it - you still want to make it easy for food to come out. 
3. Intermediate II: kibble, wet food, any leftovers you want to add, pack it tight. 
4. Advanced: Freeze it! Initially you can thaw it partially before giving it to your dog, so as not to make it too difficult. 

Remember: there are some foods that are not healthy or safe for your dog - check with your vet if you are unsure. If youre dog has never had a Kong, its best to supervise until you know he or she know how to "use it". 

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Dog Healthcare Puppy or Dog Vomiting What We Need to Know and Do

Taking care of a dog or any particular pet is not an easy task, all pet lover knows that, this time well find out How to take care of Dog or Puppy Vomiting: What we need to Know and Do.


Any owner of a dog has to deal with all kinds of problems and issues with their lovable pet, and puppy vomiting is certainly one of them.


When your pet has some dog vomiting, it can be hard to figure out what to do. Of course your puppy cant just walk over and describe whats the matter and what they need to be better. Therefore, you have to use your best judgment and understand what to look out for and what kinds of steps to take in order to help fix the situation.

One of the first things you have to do with puppy vomiting is try to find direct causes for it. If you puppy vomited white foam or yellow bile, this would mean that the puppy ate something that he wasnt supposed to. This could include types of foods which dont sit well with dogs or it could be completely inedible objects (undigested food) that they picked up off the floor or elsewhere. Whatever it is, if you can track it to something you may be able to quickly understand that this case of dog vomiting was just a one-time scenario and your dog will be fine immediately after.

Of course, lots of dog vomiting is caused when your puppy eats one of those inedible objects and then gets something stuck in their throat as a result. This is when youre likely to hear a lot of that retching sound as your dog tries to rid the obstruction from its body. As long as the dog can clear this out you wont have a problem. But if it continues or is physically affecting the dog and it seems like he is having difficulty breathing or moving around then you also need to seek out the vet immediately.


Switches in foods and diet can also be a cause of puppy vomiting. The stomach of all dogs, and of puppies especially, is very particular. They get used to certain kinds of food, in certain amounts. Eating substantially more or switching to different foods can cause a problem with their digestive system. In this case, you may want to avoid giving your dog food for just a short while, giving their bodies a chance to clear out a bit. Then a bland meal consisting of foods like boiled white rice and maybe a small bit of plain chicken will help them get back on track.


Puppy vomiting can also be a sign of a more serious illness or infection of some kind. So how are you supposed to know if its just something thats passing from a change in diet or something wrong that was eaten, or if your dog is really sick? Well, one way to check is to see if its prolonged. If the dog vomiting continues for several days then it would clearly seem that there is more to the situation, and you will need to seek out a vet for some assistance.


Also important is that if your dog is dealing with some kind of illness or infection then the puppy vomiting will only be one symptom and there could be many others. Other symptoms could include diarrhea in your dogs, fatigue and lethargy, irritations or dog hot spots on their body and so forth. In this case its definitely time to seek out the vet and to see what they recommend for treatment.

A veterinarian has many different tools and medications at his disposal that he may choose to use for your sick dog. One of these is the medication Flagyl, used to combat bacteria and parasites that could produce vomiting. To induce vomiting, the vet may use something like Apomorphine, a medication thats dispensed via an eye dropper. Alternatively, your vet may seek out actions such as an IV of fluids to combat a lot of harmful vomiting, or may want to take x-ray pictures to see whats going on and if theres anything else involved.


Hopefully by now you have a bit of a clearer picture on puppy vomiting. Many different things can be its cause, and there are many different ways that you can try to combat dog vomiting. The most important thing of course is to just be watchful of your pooch, to try to understand the situation as best as possible for yourself and to always seek out assistance for anything drastic or prolonged.


Just to remind you pet lover or dog in particular, especially beginners not to just having dogs for its happy times, but abandoning them when theyre sick or anything, just try and learn things like How to take care of Dog or Puppy Vomiting: What we need to Know and Do, or any other useful tips about dog or puppy, Happy pet caring ^_^

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If you know about me, this lil ol certified pet dog trainer of The Inquisitive Canine here in Ventura, then you know I prefer to sit in the "science camp" of dog training. Im usually pretty cautious when throwing around the science jargon, but if youve ever taken my dog training classes, dog training workshops, or have had me consult with you for private dog training, then a few of the behavior specific expressions may have come out. 

The waters can get muddy sometimes. So what Id like to do is define some of the widely used, more popular, dog training language that is currently being heard more frequently, but in laymans terms. Along with the definition, if appropriate, Ill throw in a human analogy as well. I have found that this helps us humans relate better to our pet dogs. 

• Aversive: Anything an animal considers ‘bad’ - anything unpleasant, painful, annoying, uncomfortable. A strong dislike or disinclination; tending to avoid or causing avoidance of a noxious or punishing stimulus. e.g: Shouting, hitting, ignoring, jerking with the leash, squirt bottles, applying pain intentionally, grabbing, restraining, noxious sprays, and electric shock. 

• Behavior: the way in which one acts or conducts oneself. Any action performed that can be observed and measured. e.g: Your dog resting in their bed. 

• Bridge: AKA ‘bridging stimulus’ or ‘marker’ A stimulus (something an animal sees, hears, feels) that pinpoints the exact moment in time an action of a desired behavior was performed - bridging the gap between the time the signal was given and the delivery of a reward is provided. e.g: The ‘click’ of a clicker, the sound of a whistle. 

• Classical Conditioning: AKA: ‘ Respondent Conditioning’, ‘Pavlovian Conditioning’ 

1. A learning process that occurs when two stimuli are repeatedly paired: a response that is at first elicited by the second stimulus is eventually elicited by the first stimulus alone. 
2. Conditioning in which the conditioned stimulus (as the sound of a bell) is paired with and precedes the unconditioned stimulus (as the sight of food) until the conditioned stimulus alone is sufficient to elicit the response (as salivation in a dog) 

• Conditioning: Learning. *Observe your dogs behavior. If their behavior changes, learning is taking place. 

• Consequence: An action or event that occurs after a behavior. It can affect how often that behavior will occur again in the future. 

• Counter-conditioning: Taking a fear-provoking event, which is associated with an unpleasant situation, and changing (countering or reversing) the association to one that predicts something pleasant. Reversal the learned response. Often used in conjunction with desensitization. 

• Cue: A signal which will elicit a specific behavior or reflex. e.g: Saying "sit" or using hand signal for "sit". 

• Desensitization: Process where normal defense reactions elicited by an aversive stimulus, such as shock, are modified by creating pleasant associations with a positive reinforcer. This is achieved by presenting the fear-provoking event (stimulus) at levels low enough not to cause a reaction, but enough for the animal to notice, while pairing this event (stimulus) with something the animal loves causing the feelings to be reversed. Levels of intensity are gradually increased, as long as the animal stays below the fear-provoking level of intensity. Used in conjunction with counter-conditioning. 

• Discrimination: The ability to differentiate between to similar competing stimuli. The ability to perceive differences in various aspects of the environment. 

• Flooding: AKA: Exposure "Response Prevention." An extinction process used to treat anxiety and fear-related disorders. Animal is exposed to specific anxiety producing stimulus at levels high enough until the animal no longer reacts. Intention of this treatment is for animal to relearn coping skills when exposed to stimulus, however this is considered amongst many to be cruel and unethical, and often doesnt work, depending upon the animal, and what the anxiety producing stimulus is. 

• Generalization: The process of comparing events, consequences or objects which have some trait in common and recognizing those commonalities between them. The tendency to respond to a class of stimuli rather than only to the one to which the animal was originally conditioned to. Make for wide general use or application. e.g: Dog can perform the same behavior in any setting when asked to do so without having to relearn.

• Habituation: the diminishing of a physiological or emotional response to a frequently repeated stimulus. The relatively persistent fading of a response as a result of repeated stimulation which is not followed by any specific reinforcement. AKA: Passive Desensitization.

• Instinct: An inborn predisposition to behave in a specific way when appropriately stimulated. Instincts are species specific complex behaviors. They are natural and unconditioned qualities shared by all members of a species. e.g. dogs chasing things, guarding their bones, digging, chewing, jumping up to greet. 

• Learned Helplessness: A condition created by exposure to inescapable aversive events. This can lead to delayed or prevention of learning in subsequent situations in which escape or avoidance is possible. When a human or animal ‘gives up’, and stops trying due to multiple failed attempts at trying to control a situation. e.g. dog sits politely at all times because the alternate might risk "getting in trouble" by owner. 

• Learning: the acquisition of knowledge or skills through experience, practice, or study, or by being taught. The process in which relatively permanent changes in behavior are produced through experience and memories.

• Lure: Something that motivates or is used to motivate a person or animal to do something.

• Motivation: A general term referring to the forces regulating behavior that is undertaken because of instinctual drives, needs, desires, and is directed towards a goal. One factor that can influence whether or not a learned behavior will be performed. Animal needs to be motivated in some way to perform a specific behavior - either from others, or from within. e.g. for dogs: petting, praise, attention, toys, games, tug, food playing with other dogs. 

• Negative punishment: In operant conditioning, the removal of something an animal wants.  e.g. Dog jumps on person to say ‘hello’ - person turns their back and ignores dog.

• Negative reinforcement: In operant conditioning, the removal of something an animal finds unpleasant, as an immediate result of the desired behavior performed. e.g. Pull up on choke collar until dog sits butt on ground, choke collar released. Pinning dog on back until dog relaxes and "submits." In both examples its the release of the choke chain, or allowing the dog to get up after pinning. 

• Operant Conditioning: AKA ‘Instrumental Conditioning’, ‘Skinnerian Conditioning’. The fundamental principle of operant conditioning is: behavior is determined by its consequences. A form of learning in which something the animal finds pleasant or unpleasant is presented or removed, thus altering the rate at which the behavior is performed. 

• Positive Punishment: In operant conditioning, the addition of an aversive stimulus, or something an animal seeks to avoid, that is found within the animals environment, following a behavior, with the intention of decreasing the frequency of that behavior. e.g. dog eliminates on carpet, dog get smacked. Owner pinning dog in order to "take control." 

• Positive Reinforcement: In operant conditioning, an event or stimulus provided following a specific behavior with the intention of increasing the frequency of that behavior. A positive reinforcer is something the animal desires or finds pleasant. e.g. dog sits, get treat for sitting, dog continues to sit because it predict treats. 

• Reinforce: Strengthen or support an existing feeling, idea, or habit. 

• Reinforcer: Anything that increases the frequency of the behavior it immediately follows. 

• Reinforcement: The event which increases the frequency of the behavior it follows. 

• Reward: Anything the dog considers ‘good’- stimulates at least one of the five senses - sight, smell, taste, touch, sound. Anything the dog finds motivating and reinforcing - can be: food, toys, praise, touch, freedom. e.g. belly-rub, rousing game of fetch, comfy bed, something stinky to roll in, kissy-face with family members, liver treat. A return that is obtained upon the successful performance of a task. 

• Reward-based training program: Using anything an animal finds appealing and ‘rewarding’ to elicit, reinforce, or inhibit behaviors. 

• Sensitization: Intensifying of an animals response to stimuli that did not originally produce such strong feelings. 

• Shaping: A method of modifying behavior. The entire process of selectively reinforcing responses in successive steps towards the goal of a desired response. Based on principles of operant conditioning in which an animals behavior is gradually molded to specific desired patterns through the delivery of positive reinforcement at distinct moments. 

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WHO do you really want to blame

I was in one of my favorite stores yesterday...waiting in line to buy groceries for din-din, and couldnt help overhearing the conversation between one of the cashiers and a customer. As soon as I heard the words "my dog" my ears perked up...Like any predator, my sense of hearing improved once I acknowledged my "prey" - so to speak... 

I guess the customer was buying lots of doggy treats, because the cashier commented about her own dog, and that she loved her dog etc... but that she (the dog) was "naughty" and in the "dog house".... Yes, this is what caught my attention, blaming the dog for something the human probably did in the first place to set the dog up for "failure"... 

From what I heard, and trust me, I didnt listen very long... once I heard the blame-game I shut my ears and diverted to the luscious chocolate display next to me...plus, I saw a friend there, who happens to be a former student of both my private and Manners class. Anyway, she arrived at the perfect time. We started chatting away, which was a great diversion for me. 

What was being said you ask? I guess the cashier and her boyfriend left a pile of food out on the counter at their home... including a pizza... Well, counter-surfing is a grande game to be played by any animal, especially dogs (and husbands when freshly baked cookies are sitting out)... Not only can dogs jump up on counters easily - or stretch and put their paws up...theyre also quite efficient at using their mouths and paws, pulling items onto the floor to be devoured. Especially when the said item is a freakin pizza!!! YUM! What a HUGE payoff!!! 

So, come on!! Really? Blame the dog? Really? Hmm... I myself applaud the dog for being so resourceful and clever, and for hopefully teaching those humans a lesson about "puppy proofing" their home... I say put the humans in the dog house for being naughty... Oh, and by the way, as much as I hate to admit it, being the professional that I am, its happened to me too! Yep, me, the one who teaches everyone else about dogs... My own dog Poncho taught my husband and myself about puppy proofing out home! Lets just say were much more careful about where we leave food, especially when were preoccupied with each other :-) These animals learned!

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Do you have dog sense

Ive heard great things about this new book "Dog Sense" by John Bradshaw. Here is an excerpt from his NPR interview:

"In the past, when dogs functions were mostly rural, it was accepted that they were intrinsically messy and needed to be managed on their own terms. Today, by contrast, many pet dogs live in circumscribed, urban environments and are expected to be simultaneously better behaved than the average human child and as self-reliant as adults. As if these new obligations were not enough, many dogs still manifest the adaptations that suited them for their original functions — traits that we now demand they cast away as if they had never existed. The collie who herds sheep is the shepherds best friend; the pet collie who tries to herd children and chases bicycles is an owners nightmare. The new, unrealistic standards to which many humans hold their dogs have arisen from one of several fundamental misconceptions about what dogs are and what they have been designed to do."

That sounds pretty on the mark to me! Here is more about John and the book: http://www.npr.org/2011/05/26/136497064/the-new-science-of-understanding-dog-behavior

This looks like it will be my next dog related book purchase. It sounds like it has a great message for the masses of pet dog owners. Hopefully it will help dispel the popular (and wrong) dog as wolf myth as well. So far Ive only heard great things. Fingers crossed it gets people to treat their dogs better. We can only hope.

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Dog aggression – what can I do about it Dog aggression – what can I do about it

Dog aggression – what can I do about it?

It’s just pretty easy to tell when your dog’s nervy and uneasy when around strange people. The more types and different classes of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general. This is the secret to socializing your dog.

- Aggression towards strangers
- What is it?

It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s very still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)



Why does it happen? There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?

What can I do about it?

The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.

How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?

When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, its OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppy hood for the lesson to sink in.

The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general.

How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?

Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!). In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.

Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.

This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).

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