How to get your dogs attention
Here is a long overdue training post on what I consider the beginning of focus work.
Getting your dogs attention is the first step in building your foundation to having a really reliable recall and for focus work later if needed. To accomplish this the first thing I do is teach the dog that its name is valuable. When I say the dogs name "Fido" and they look at me I praise them verbally. "Good dog!" A happy tone of voice is important for verbal praise. Otherwise it has no meaning to the dog. If the dog comes over to me I will also add physical praise like petting and stroking if they like it. Note: not all dogs like to be handled, some are touch sensitive. Skip petting for a touch sensitive dog. Do not pet your dog on the top of its head. Most dogs dislike this form of petting. (Watch your dog closely when you do this, do they pull away or duck? If so they are trying to avoid it.) I will also have a happy facial expression whenever I praise a dog. Remember body language is our dogs first language so they learn to read our body and facial expressions very quickly. If they come over I might also add play and/or a food reward. Our goal is to build a positive association to their name and our contact with them.
*
A review about using praise ~ The 5 most commons ways we can praise our dogs are:
1) verbally - in a happy tone
2) physically - if they like being touched
3) by smiling - communication in language they understand
4) engaging in play - fetch, tug, games they enjoy
and
5) using food rewards - high value treats
*
Because we cant call a dog to us unless they are paying attention we need to teach the attention first. We cannot guarantee we have that attention unless they are physically looking at us. Even then remember that we are competing with things we dont smell or hear so we may not have 100% of their attention, especially if we are outside. If they are sniffing something or looking at something else they are not trying to ignore you. Most times they are just focused on what has their attention and they dont hear us. Saying the dogs name and rewarding them for looking at us is the start of building great focus.
*
The next step is teaching the dog what the word "come" actually means to us. Now because I want "come" to always mean come to me and sit I teach it that way. If you want the dog to just come closer use a different word. Example: I use "lets go" to mean come along with me. One of the most important things to remember when using the word/cue "come" is to never use it for anything the dog considers a negative reason. For instance if they hate getting a bath and you call them to you and then stick them in the tub you will poison that cue. They will pause the next time you call them because youve used it with a negative association to them. For this reason I also use a completely different word for lets go back into the house or playtime is over. (sidenote tip: to get dogs to want to come back into the house or car toss some well loved treats and/or a favorite toy on the floor as you go out so as soon as the dog walks back into the house or car they get magically rewarded.)
*
You can teach your recall in a few ways, this is just one of them. I tend to begin with lure reward training especially if the dog hasnt learned his name means anything. Put the treat in front of the dogs nose and back away from them a few steps pulling the treat in front of your legs so they target their nose on it. AS they are coming towards you say the cue word "come". The reason you say the word as they are doing it is to pair the word with the action for the dog. Dont repeat your cue. When the dog gets to the treat simply raise it slightly back over the dogs head so they sit. You can also say the word sit AS they are sitting. Say "yes", your verbal marker (or click) and give the treat after they sit. My hand action pulling the treat towards me, and pulling the treat up, also become hand signals later for the commands. (Lure reward training is also excellent to use with deaf dogs. Use a thumbs up signal for your reward marker signal.)
*
If you teach your dog its name has meaning you will notice the dog starts coming to you before you say the actual cue word "come". It can become its own pre-recall command so make sure you separate the name from the come command with a few seconds. Otherwise "Fido come" becomes the command which isnt the goal because then when you say the word "come" alone they may not understand what you want. "Fido" should mean look at me so you can pair it with other things later, not just for the recall. Whenever my dogs come to me I always reward them in some way. EVERY time. This keeps the recall worthwhile to them. Remember that dogs are very much "Whats in it for me" creatures. Rewarding them also establishes that coming to me gets them good things and therefore makes the recall a positive association. Most people have problems getting a dog to come when called because they try calling them when the dog is engaged in a more fun behavior. If we make the recall more fun than everything else that problem will resolve.
*
Now I know some clicker trainers prefer to get the dog doing a behavior reliably before they name it for the dog. This is also ok as long as everyone understands what they need to do to make that work. I find some people have a hard time not speaking to their dogs so I think this way accommodates that issue. There are some things I also teach before naming and putting on a cue, this just isnt one of them. (for me)
*
Trouble shooting: If your dog doesnt look at you when you say its name add sound. Clap your hands or make kissing noises. Say the name happily when they do finally look. Shake a toy when they look. Make them want to come to you. Whatever you do do NOT get annoyed and yell at them. Remember we are making positive associations. Practice inside first where there are fewer distractions. When moving your recall practice outside the house start out closer to the dog to be sure you can get their attention. Increase your distance over time. Do NOT say come until the dog is looking at you and on its way towards you. Make sure you remember to have them sit when they get to you. Dont repeat your cue "come" but you can make other noises to encourage forward movement. Keep practice sessions short so they stay fun.
*
Happy training!
Marie Finnegan
Read More..
Getting your dogs attention is the first step in building your foundation to having a really reliable recall and for focus work later if needed. To accomplish this the first thing I do is teach the dog that its name is valuable. When I say the dogs name "Fido" and they look at me I praise them verbally. "Good dog!" A happy tone of voice is important for verbal praise. Otherwise it has no meaning to the dog. If the dog comes over to me I will also add physical praise like petting and stroking if they like it. Note: not all dogs like to be handled, some are touch sensitive. Skip petting for a touch sensitive dog. Do not pet your dog on the top of its head. Most dogs dislike this form of petting. (Watch your dog closely when you do this, do they pull away or duck? If so they are trying to avoid it.) I will also have a happy facial expression whenever I praise a dog. Remember body language is our dogs first language so they learn to read our body and facial expressions very quickly. If they come over I might also add play and/or a food reward. Our goal is to build a positive association to their name and our contact with them.*
A review about using praise ~ The 5 most commons ways we can praise our dogs are:
1) verbally - in a happy tone
2) physically - if they like being touched
3) by smiling - communication in language they understand
4) engaging in play - fetch, tug, games they enjoy
and
5) using food rewards - high value treats
*
Because we cant call a dog to us unless they are paying attention we need to teach the attention first. We cannot guarantee we have that attention unless they are physically looking at us. Even then remember that we are competing with things we dont smell or hear so we may not have 100% of their attention, especially if we are outside. If they are sniffing something or looking at something else they are not trying to ignore you. Most times they are just focused on what has their attention and they dont hear us. Saying the dogs name and rewarding them for looking at us is the start of building great focus.
*
The next step is teaching the dog what the word "come" actually means to us. Now because I want "come" to always mean come to me and sit I teach it that way. If you want the dog to just come closer use a different word. Example: I use "lets go" to mean come along with me. One of the most important things to remember when using the word/cue "come" is to never use it for anything the dog considers a negative reason. For instance if they hate getting a bath and you call them to you and then stick them in the tub you will poison that cue. They will pause the next time you call them because youve used it with a negative association to them. For this reason I also use a completely different word for lets go back into the house or playtime is over. (sidenote tip: to get dogs to want to come back into the house or car toss some well loved treats and/or a favorite toy on the floor as you go out so as soon as the dog walks back into the house or car they get magically rewarded.)
*
You can teach your recall in a few ways, this is just one of them. I tend to begin with lure reward training especially if the dog hasnt learned his name means anything. Put the treat in front of the dogs nose and back away from them a few steps pulling the treat in front of your legs so they target their nose on it. AS they are coming towards you say the cue word "come". The reason you say the word as they are doing it is to pair the word with the action for the dog. Dont repeat your cue. When the dog gets to the treat simply raise it slightly back over the dogs head so they sit. You can also say the word sit AS they are sitting. Say "yes", your verbal marker (or click) and give the treat after they sit. My hand action pulling the treat towards me, and pulling the treat up, also become hand signals later for the commands. (Lure reward training is also excellent to use with deaf dogs. Use a thumbs up signal for your reward marker signal.)
*
If you teach your dog its name has meaning you will notice the dog starts coming to you before you say the actual cue word "come". It can become its own pre-recall command so make sure you separate the name from the come command with a few seconds. Otherwise "Fido come" becomes the command which isnt the goal because then when you say the word "come" alone they may not understand what you want. "Fido" should mean look at me so you can pair it with other things later, not just for the recall. Whenever my dogs come to me I always reward them in some way. EVERY time. This keeps the recall worthwhile to them. Remember that dogs are very much "Whats in it for me" creatures. Rewarding them also establishes that coming to me gets them good things and therefore makes the recall a positive association. Most people have problems getting a dog to come when called because they try calling them when the dog is engaged in a more fun behavior. If we make the recall more fun than everything else that problem will resolve.
*
Now I know some clicker trainers prefer to get the dog doing a behavior reliably before they name it for the dog. This is also ok as long as everyone understands what they need to do to make that work. I find some people have a hard time not speaking to their dogs so I think this way accommodates that issue. There are some things I also teach before naming and putting on a cue, this just isnt one of them. (for me)
*
Trouble shooting: If your dog doesnt look at you when you say its name add sound. Clap your hands or make kissing noises. Say the name happily when they do finally look. Shake a toy when they look. Make them want to come to you. Whatever you do do NOT get annoyed and yell at them. Remember we are making positive associations. Practice inside first where there are fewer distractions. When moving your recall practice outside the house start out closer to the dog to be sure you can get their attention. Increase your distance over time. Do NOT say come until the dog is looking at you and on its way towards you. Make sure you remember to have them sit when they get to you. Dont repeat your cue "come" but you can make other noises to encourage forward movement. Keep practice sessions short so they stay fun.
*
Happy training!
Marie Finnegan
Front yard agility
OK so I admit I dont know that much about agility. I know what it is but have never pursued it aside from having a few obstacles to play with a little. I have practiced the jump with Jenny before because it is in the higher levels of Rally. I toy with the idea of taking a class with Jenny just for fun but that would require having enough free time. Since today was a beautiful sunny and cool day I got all the equipment out and set it up in a kind of mini course. (Alright I admit seeing a super awesome video of a pug at the world games sparked the urge.) The cones are for for heeling practice. I have a tunnel (a former barrel with the bottom cut off) and the blue thing in the background is usually a ladder footing obstacle. It occurred to me to try setting it on its side and use it as a makeshift weave pole obstacle for Jenny. It works pretty well!
I use Missys old ramp as a dog walk set up against the picnic table. On the other end is an upturned bucket with a rug as a step down. I need to paint it and add some more grip tape or sandy paint.
This is an upturned bin with some "no slip" cloth on it as a raised table. Clearly this will only work with a small dog.
Jack preferred to play with his toys than try any of the obstacles. I did get him to do the jump but only once. It just isnt his thing. (And we are fine with that.)
You can make up a course with things you have handy around the house and yard if you are motivated to try it. It doesnt have to look fancy. Just be sure anything your dog will get up on is sturdy for safety and keep the jumps low in the beginning of training. And if you dont have anything to jump, if they are willing, you can always use your other dog!Happy Training!!
All choked up over this question
I was having a discussion on the use of choke chains with dogs - and the question came up about using them on stronger dogs, especially Pit Bull Terriers. Let me say this first: 1) I love Pit Bulls. 2) I am NOT breed biased. Doggy DNA is doggy DNA - they all have the propensity to act like dogs whether they be a teacup chihuahua or an american pit bull terrier. The difference is obvious when it comes to the injury itself, and in that: size does matter... This is what I told my friend who asked the innocent question of using them on APBTs (she lives in a big big city with APBTs everywhere...and she doesnt own a dog herself...its okay, shes still really cool)... Anyway, this was my answer for her:
but what if you have a pitbull in brooklyn (there are millions!)? just askin.. > Are you kidding? Please allow me to pass on some info: "all" animals learn the same way- So, if you have a 6 8" athletic boxer, or a 3 tall little girl, a lion, a tiger, a bear, a fish, a hamster, cat, or Pit Bull Terrier - all will learn the same way - The way that humans use choke chains for training places them (the collars) under the "Learning by Consequence" path - Based on the consequences of the animals own behavior you can either give them something they want, or take it away - or you can give them something they dont want, or remove it, or prevent it from happening. (BF Skinner come to mind here?) Anyway, the more *humane* techniques are: give something they want, or take it away - like sports (three strikes, penalty box, and that whole deal)... Dog sits = he gets a treat and gets to say *hi* to person - Dog jumps up = dog doesnt get treat and doesnt get to say hello to person.
Read More..
Choke chains, prong collars, squirt bottles, jerking the collar (collar corrections), electronic shock collars, citronella collars - all of these *positive punishment* techniques are threats, considered abusive, and only motivate the dog out of pain and fear! Plus, they only focus in on what you DONT WANT, not what you do want... If you were involved with someone that walked around with a belt in their hand, ready to hit you with it if you did something THEY didnt like, and only paid attention when you were doing something *wrong* (only in their eyes mind you - could be a normal behavior of yours...) how long would you stay with this person?
As I mentioned above choke chains (and the like) are used for the purpose of "Consequence Learning". However, both types of learning are taking place at the same time (the "emotional" learning by association path), and thus creates a main reason for dog aggression to start - but thats a different email (post)...Ill let you digest this one first.
This is just some of the info I talk about in my classes and workshops here in Ventura... you to can learn more about this path of learning, and well as the other - stronger path... You and your dog will love it!
Heeling reward placement with dog trainer Forrest Micke
Hello, Students!
Here is the video of Forrest using some toys to help motivate proper heel position and lots(!!) of focus on the handler. This will show you the use of the magnet ball as a training device. If you decide you want one, please let me know and Ill get you one when I place my order. E-mail me and Ill let you know what I find in the way of the best price--figure around $40.00, but Im not positive.
Read More..
Here is the video of Forrest using some toys to help motivate proper heel position and lots(!!) of focus on the handler. This will show you the use of the magnet ball as a training device. If you decide you want one, please let me know and Ill get you one when I place my order. E-mail me and Ill let you know what I find in the way of the best price--figure around $40.00, but Im not positive.
Out of the Box Dog Training Game All About Skill Level
The following is a most excellent question from one of my wonderful inquisitive canine students - thought Id share it with everyone, just in case you have the same question.
Read More..
Hi Joan - I have a question regarding your new Out of the Box Dog Training Game.
When practicing with my dogs Ady & Ashley, Ill want to take them from beginner to intermediate (and eventually to advanced) for certain behaviors, BUT I cant remember what differentiated one level to the next, like the descriptions on the canine circuit training class posters. Are the cards detailed like the circuit posters? Thanks - Ady and Ashleys mom.
This is a great question, as Im sure there are other inquisitive canine folks out there wondering the same thing. Id be more than happy to answer this, and describe how I teach my inquisitive canine students in the various dog training classes I offer, as well as private dog training clients to make the behaviors easier or more difficult for his or her dog(s).
The concept I teach and often refer to is "3-D Training" - Distance, Duration and Distractions. Adjusting each element on its own will make a behavior easier or more difficult for your dog to perform.
When teaching your dog a new behavior, youll want to make it easier and increase only one "D" at a time. Youll then either lower the other two Ds" or keep them the same level. To make it more difficult, or to advance your dogs skills, increase one "D" at a time. For those truly advanced dogs out there you can increase two "Ds" at a time while lowering or keeping the third one the same.
I describe each "D" in the following way:
- Distance: the distance between you and your dog, or your dog and the object/person you want them to go to or target.
- Duration: the amount of time you want your dog to hold a position.
- Distractions: anything, and I mean ANYTHING in the environment that your dog can be triggered or motivated by - this includes anything that can stimulate at least one of his or her senses in some way.
A few examples related to skill level would include:
- Distance using Recall (coming when called): Beginner level: Inside your home, no distractions, no other behaviors like sit-stay, from 5 feet away. Advanced level: 30 yards away outside at off leash dog park with a mid-way "stop and stay".
- Duration using Waiting At Doors: Beginner level: Have your dog sit before being let outside, give release cue then immediately open door to let him or her outside. Advanced level, ask for sit-stay at door, open door, dog has to wait 5-10 seconds before release cue is given, allowing them to go outside.
- Distractions using walking on Loose Leash: Beginner level: inside home. Advanced level is walking outside with every distraction in the world.
As a gentle reminder, remember to reward everything you want, and to increase the value of the motivator when youre advancing those skill levels. (Motivation is another topic I bring up in the Guide Booklet" and throughout my dog training classes and private dog training sessions).
This information can be found in the Guide Booklet of my newly developed Out of the Box Dog Training Game. Its also part of my various dog training class welcome packets and workbooks. The great thing about understanding this concept is it makes it easy for anyone to play the game, plus youll be able to play it over and over, all you have to do is to adjust the skill level as you go.
Happy training to you and your dogs, and thanks again for the question! I love when people are as inquisitive as their canines.
Please help with my research!
Please help with my research by participating:
Click this link ---> Dog Survey!
Thanks! :)
10 Foods To Avoid For Your Dog
How would you believe these 10 Foods To Avoid For Your Dog, care to read on or you would rather not be because you dont believe it, because youve already given all there is to give to your dog, and all is well for the moment, you see it is just for the moment that all is well, you will soon realize and by then it could be too late to do anything about it, then you will regret it all, and so sad that you cant even do anything to help.
This is a short list of foods to avoid for your dog.
They can be harmful to your pet.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
but the nuts can be dangerous for your pet.
Nuts are high in fat and can cause your dog to vomit and diarrhea.
Nicotene damage through the digestive system of dogs release harmful toxins that may kill him.
Onion and garlic family of any of the red blood cell damage and anemia.
Raw garlic can actually cause liver damage.
Already obvious right?
we just do not want to eat it, why should we give to our pets
This plant is poisonous leaves oxalate and will cause problems with the nervous system and urinary tract problems.
When the dough rises and causes the gas in the digestive system.
Yummy snacks can cause upper airway obstruction.
Raw eggs contain avidin which is known to reduce the absorption of biotin which may cause problems with skin and fur. Eggs may also contain Salmonella.
Just say no to a confection of sugar for your dog.
These methylxanthine alkaloids in chocolate cause serious problems including stroke, choking, and can kill your dog.
Beware!!! Do take seriously about these 10 Foods To Avoid For Your Dog, because the threat is real.
Read More..
This is a short list of foods to avoid for your dog.
They can be harmful to your pet.
Bone
Although we all look at our doggie friends in our minds that eating large bones, the truth of the matter is that the bone can not be destroyed or broken and can cause your dog to choke.Bean
Squirrel loves nuts, as well as dogs,but the nuts can be dangerous for your pet.
Nuts are high in fat and can cause your dog to vomit and diarrhea.
Cigarette / Tobacco
We all know smoking is bad for us, so why should we give our pets nicotine caused him problems.Onion
They do look yummy, but if you share this delicious piece with your dog, he will die.Raw garlic can actually cause liver damage.
Rotten fruit
we just do not want to eat it, why should we give to our pets
Rhubarb leaves
Raw dough
raw dough could ferment in the stomach and cause alcohol poisoning.Popcorn
Eggs
Though weve all heard that raw eggs are good for dogs skin and fur, its a myth.Chocolate
Although everyone knows the dangers of chocolate to the dog, it should be stated again.These methylxanthine alkaloids in chocolate cause serious problems including stroke, choking, and can kill your dog.
Beware!!! Do take seriously about these 10 Foods To Avoid For Your Dog, because the threat is real.
Dog Trainer in Ventura Hits YouTube!
Well folks Ive made onto YouTube! Thanks to Nathan Weiner and Tree in a Box Productions (gotta love the name!) I am on film! very exciting indeed...just click on the link and check it out for yourself!
Read More..
Happy Birthday Dashman!!
Dash is a former foster frenchie we had through the group FBRN. He got a great home with a big brother (a wonderful Boston Terrier named Ivan) and his new home has kept in touch with us over the years. Something that I am very grateful for. He turned 5 yesterday. Here he is after a nice long birthday walk. I know, you want to snuggle him dont you? He has that effect on people.
Ironicly my husband came across some old videos of him playing with our dogs yesterday. Here is one of my favorites. Sorry, youtube and blogger werent getting along well enough for me to embed this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xEPBXVDj2A He had a great time with Jack as you can see. Happy Birthday Dashman and heres to many many more!!!
Read More..
Ironicly my husband came across some old videos of him playing with our dogs yesterday. Here is one of my favorites. Sorry, youtube and blogger werent getting along well enough for me to embed this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xEPBXVDj2A He had a great time with Jack as you can see. Happy Birthday Dashman and heres to many many more!!!
Semper Fi Fund Service Dog Team In Training Patrick and Zeus!
Im so proud of these guys!
Pet First Aid CPR Course Coming March 8th
Ninety-two percent of dogs and cats will experience an emergency during their life-time. Do you know what to do to help your four-legged friend? My friend Denise Fleck of Sunny-Dog INK knows what to do, and she wants to share it with you!
Read More..
Her PET FIRST-AID & CPR CLASS will be offered at Veterinary Medical & Surgical Group (2199 Sperry Avenue – Ventura 93003) on Sunday, March 8th, 2009 from 10:00am – 3:00pm.
Cost is $55 per person with a portion of the proceeds benefitting The Humane Society of Ventura County. Fee includes class tuition, handbook, certificate and wallet card for each student.
Skills are taught through lecture, demonstration and hands-on practice.
Techniques include:
Denise will also cover such topics as:
- Muzzling and Safe Approach of a sick or injured animal
- How to Find Your Pet’s Pulse, Respiration, Capillary Refill Time & Hydration
- Rescue Breathing & CPR
- Bandaging & Splinting Techniques
- How to handle Snake Bites, Bee Stings, Tick Removal
- How to Administer Medications
- Using the items in your Pet First-Aid Kit
- Bloat
- Burns
- Choking
- Constipation
- Diarrhea
- Drowning
- Electric Shock
- Frostbite
- Heat Stroke
- Poisoning
- Seizures
Denise will also cover such topics as:
- The importance of developing a GOOD RELATIONSHIP with your VETERINARIAN
- How to take a more active role in your dog or cats health & care
- Ten Situations that require IMMEDIATE Veterinary Care
- An Introduction to Disaster Preparedness
Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled
Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled?
All dogs have different handling and training thresholds. As far as washing and brushing goes for dogs, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for just a small amount and fee, you can get your dog washed, groomed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you may require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)
All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.)
Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persist in trying to hug them.
Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.
Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him.
This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.
Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed?
In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.
Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.
For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm.
The instant he starts to show signs of stress stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats. Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.
Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)
Read More..
All dogs have different handling and training thresholds. As far as washing and brushing goes for dogs, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for just a small amount and fee, you can get your dog washed, groomed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you may require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)
All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.)
Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persist in trying to hug them.
Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.
Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him.
This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.
Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed?
In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.
Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.
For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm.
The instant he starts to show signs of stress stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats. Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.
Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)
House Training Issues why do our dogs use the inside of our homes to eliminate
Poncho and I have both been receiving questions regarding dogs - both puppy and adult- and house-training issues. Poncho answered one question more in-depth for our Noozhawk column, but I thought Id address it myself.
Read More..
As we all know, or youll soon learn, dogs arent known to generalize behaviors we want - this includes "knowing" the proper place to go potty. Sure, theyve learned where to go where they live, but often times when you take them to a new location, they need to be re-taught. And, sometimes you need to re-teach those skills in even where they live.
House-training basics should be instilled whenever a dog goes to a new place. Meaning, take the dog where you want him or her to eliminate, wait until they do just that, then reward them - using a yummy treat, petting, praise, and allowing them either freedom off the leash or getting to go inside the house/building etc... With consistency, the dog will learn that the trend of going outside is the better choice.
I have my students use this approach whenever they bring their dog to my Inquisitive Canine studio for classes or socials. Their dog is to go potty outside, and the reward is a treat and getting to come in for class. The first couple of times take a little longer (this is why I ask folks to arrive early), but once the dog "gets it", theyre more likely to get their business done so they can come in for class. Its nice to see pooches that excited about going to school.
One other topic Ill mention regarding house-training is "texture" or "substrate" of the type of surface where a dog will usually eliminate. If theyre used to a specific surface, then it changes, they might be "confused" and not "go potty" immediately. Take for instance wet grass vs dry. Its been raining out here (finally), so getting dogs out into the rain to potty may be a whole new experience for them - you might need to get out the treats, leash (to manage them from wandering off exploring other things) and take them outside yourself. Using some of your basic house-training techniques will help set them up for success - and help prevent you having to clean up.
Abby and Splash play date at the beach
Splash taught Abby to swim! Now Abby can swim fearlessly like a true retriever! Abby taught Splash (not previously a fan) that tennis balls are pretty cool!
Abby is very photogenic!
Dirty dirty dog...
The One Year Old Dog Part 2
Well, the holidays came upon us and I didnt get the chance to write Part 2 of The One Year Old Dog as quickly as I hoped. Meanwhile, I got 3 calls from people who needed help with... yes, you guessed it... their one year old (or close to that age) dog.
Almost everyone wants to know what to do to end the chewing. Why is that one day the dog is left alone and everything is fine... and the next day the dog is left alone and you come home to your couch in pieces?
The first thing to understand is that your dog is not chewing your house apart to annoy you. To your dog, chewing is instinctive and fun. Your dog chews as part of his teething stage and to strengthen his teeth. Your dog chews to investigate, much the same way a human baby sticks everything in his or her mouth. Its interesting; it gives tactile stimulation. And to a dog that is left home without human stimulation and becomes bored, chewing is a very rewarding activity.
The most important piece of advice I can give about dogs going through the destructive chewing phase is this - I dont trust them. Simple as that. I dont trust a young dog to be left to roam the entire house while no one is there. Your dog may be housebroken, but if you want your plants to remain in their pots, your sofa cushions to remain on the sofa in one piece and your carpet to stay intact, you wont leave your dog alone for extended periods of time.
So what do you do? If youve crate trained your dog, yay for you! Your dog can remain in his crate for up to 4 hours or so while you are gone. If you are gone all day at work, find another secure area to contain your dog - a kitchen with a baby gate, a dog pen, an area that is not too large but not too small and is free of items you dont want your dogs mouth on.
So wont Fido still try to chew on things like kitchen cabinets? Yes, sometimes. Its best to try to leave your dog with one or two interesting items to focus on. Do not leave 500 toys for your dog to play with. Chances are he will get bored with them, and if he has that many toys, he just assumes everything is his. I like leaving a marrow bone filled with yummy stuff or wedging a piece of hot dog in the bone that the dog can try to get out. There are great interactive toys you can purchase - some of which contain hidden treats for the dog. Rotate your dogs toys as well. Take away a favorite toy for a few days and then leave it with him one day while you are gone. He will be so excited to see that squeaky duck again (or whatever it is)!
If you have found that your dog has already started chewing something he shouldnt, you may want to purchase a product called Bitter Apple (or something equivalent). Make sure you spray the product on your finger and place it on your dogs tongue. He will not like the bitter taste (usually!). Then spray the Bitter Apple on the area you want him to avoid. The taste will fade off the area, but the smell will remain, reminding your dog of that bad, bitter taste. Most people make the mistake of simply spraying the item on the couch or wherever and expecting the dog to avoid it. The dog doesnt care about the smell. He must relate the bad taste to the smell.
So when can you start to trust your pet? Does he have to be contained forever? The answer is no. Gradually, as your dog matures, you want to let your dog be alone in the house for short periods of time. Or you may want to extend the area in which he stays. Try going out for coffee or a quick lunch and see how he does. Praise him if you return to a home with no destruction. With time, you can start to trust your dog.
Remember, the destructive chew stage is from around 8 months old - 2 years old. Sometimes the time frame is less, sometimes more. If you exercise your dog before leaving the house and follow the advice I have mentioned, you will get through this stage with less damage!
Read More..
Almost everyone wants to know what to do to end the chewing. Why is that one day the dog is left alone and everything is fine... and the next day the dog is left alone and you come home to your couch in pieces?
The first thing to understand is that your dog is not chewing your house apart to annoy you. To your dog, chewing is instinctive and fun. Your dog chews as part of his teething stage and to strengthen his teeth. Your dog chews to investigate, much the same way a human baby sticks everything in his or her mouth. Its interesting; it gives tactile stimulation. And to a dog that is left home without human stimulation and becomes bored, chewing is a very rewarding activity.
The most important piece of advice I can give about dogs going through the destructive chewing phase is this - I dont trust them. Simple as that. I dont trust a young dog to be left to roam the entire house while no one is there. Your dog may be housebroken, but if you want your plants to remain in their pots, your sofa cushions to remain on the sofa in one piece and your carpet to stay intact, you wont leave your dog alone for extended periods of time.
So what do you do? If youve crate trained your dog, yay for you! Your dog can remain in his crate for up to 4 hours or so while you are gone. If you are gone all day at work, find another secure area to contain your dog - a kitchen with a baby gate, a dog pen, an area that is not too large but not too small and is free of items you dont want your dogs mouth on.
So wont Fido still try to chew on things like kitchen cabinets? Yes, sometimes. Its best to try to leave your dog with one or two interesting items to focus on. Do not leave 500 toys for your dog to play with. Chances are he will get bored with them, and if he has that many toys, he just assumes everything is his. I like leaving a marrow bone filled with yummy stuff or wedging a piece of hot dog in the bone that the dog can try to get out. There are great interactive toys you can purchase - some of which contain hidden treats for the dog. Rotate your dogs toys as well. Take away a favorite toy for a few days and then leave it with him one day while you are gone. He will be so excited to see that squeaky duck again (or whatever it is)!
If you have found that your dog has already started chewing something he shouldnt, you may want to purchase a product called Bitter Apple (or something equivalent). Make sure you spray the product on your finger and place it on your dogs tongue. He will not like the bitter taste (usually!). Then spray the Bitter Apple on the area you want him to avoid. The taste will fade off the area, but the smell will remain, reminding your dog of that bad, bitter taste. Most people make the mistake of simply spraying the item on the couch or wherever and expecting the dog to avoid it. The dog doesnt care about the smell. He must relate the bad taste to the smell.
So when can you start to trust your pet? Does he have to be contained forever? The answer is no. Gradually, as your dog matures, you want to let your dog be alone in the house for short periods of time. Or you may want to extend the area in which he stays. Try going out for coffee or a quick lunch and see how he does. Praise him if you return to a home with no destruction. With time, you can start to trust your dog.
Remember, the destructive chew stage is from around 8 months old - 2 years old. Sometimes the time frame is less, sometimes more. If you exercise your dog before leaving the house and follow the advice I have mentioned, you will get through this stage with less damage!
CANINE RUNWAY First level Finalist AND runner up!
Splash! was picked as one of the two finalists in Canine Runway from San Diego. The next level is in Los Angeles and finally Los Vegas! Guess who was one of the two runners up? KIKO!
Keep paws crossed for Splash!
Kiko sucks up to one of the judges after the prizes! 
My friends Pom Libby should have one if it was based mainly on Fashion (which it should have been according to the rules), as she is awesome at making dog leashes and harnesses... Not to mention how ADORABLE Libby is being only 2 pounds.A fellow youtube clicker trainer and friend Nan Arthur filmed the event, check out the videos-
How To Deal With A Jumping Problem
Do you accept jumping from your dog when you play with him yet you do not allow such behaviour from him when you are all dressed up for work?
In this scenario, we are actually confusing our dogs and may even cause anxiety in them.
Always remember that jumping is a natural behaviour for a dog. Hence it is impossible to eliminate or correct such behaviour within a short period of time.
In dealing with this problem, we have to be consistent in our message to our dog that such behaviour is unacceptable.
To deal with this problem, always remember:
Avoid rough games.
Have toys for playing fetch with him and treats at hand to re-direct the dog’s attention during games.
If need be, use a leash during game.
When he jumps, simply say ‘No’ and gently tugs the leash
Holds the dog’s face and body away from you until he calms down and stops jumping
Then allows him to approach you again
Praise him when he approaches you WITHOUT jumping
Avoid excitable greetings.
Always greet and interact with the dog calmly and gently.
Teach him to sit as a way of greeting. Remember to Praise and Reward him for greeting you in the correct way.
To correct the dog’s jumping behaviour, combine both positive re-enforcement (praise and reward) and negative re-enforcement by letting him experience negative consequences (punishment) for jumping:
Method 1 – Losing his playmate
When he jumps, turn away and immediately stop all interaction with him
Do not touch him with your hand or look down at him as he may think that his jumping behaviour as acceptable
When he tries other methods such as sitting or fetching his toys to get your attention, praise him immediately and calmly so as not to excite and encourage the dog to jump.
If jumping does NOT stop at this time, walk away from him, which may mean leaving the room and not allowing the dog to follow you.
After two to three minutes, return to the room. Your dog should greet you in a calmer manner.
Method 2 – Using Physical Correction
Say ‘No’ immediately when the dog jumps.
Gently tugs the leash on the dog in a downward motion; or
Squirting the dog with water though some dogs love such action
Sit the dog and praise him for doing so
To train your dog to properly greet your guests at the front door:
Keep a spare leash or collar by the front door
When a guest arrives, immediately put the dog on leash
Put the dog in a sit-and-stay position by the front door
Invite the guest in
If the dog jumps on guest, say ‘No’, gently tug the leash to pull him off the guest, put him in his sit position again and praise him
Remember to have plenty of daily practices at the front door with the dog when there are no visitors. Open and close the door often enough for your dog to get used to the action. Then proceed to knocking at the front door and ringing the bell while keeping your dog in a sit-stay position all the while.
Such practices will help the dog to reduce his jumping, lessen his excitement and excessive barking at the front door.
And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!
You Can Do It!
To your success in dog training
Read More..
In this scenario, we are actually confusing our dogs and may even cause anxiety in them.
Always remember that jumping is a natural behaviour for a dog. Hence it is impossible to eliminate or correct such behaviour within a short period of time.
In dealing with this problem, we have to be consistent in our message to our dog that such behaviour is unacceptable.
To deal with this problem, always remember:
Avoid rough games.
Have toys for playing fetch with him and treats at hand to re-direct the dog’s attention during games.
If need be, use a leash during game.
When he jumps, simply say ‘No’ and gently tugs the leash
Holds the dog’s face and body away from you until he calms down and stops jumping
Then allows him to approach you again
Praise him when he approaches you WITHOUT jumping
Avoid excitable greetings.
Always greet and interact with the dog calmly and gently.
Teach him to sit as a way of greeting. Remember to Praise and Reward him for greeting you in the correct way.
To correct the dog’s jumping behaviour, combine both positive re-enforcement (praise and reward) and negative re-enforcement by letting him experience negative consequences (punishment) for jumping:
Method 1 – Losing his playmate
When he jumps, turn away and immediately stop all interaction with him
Do not touch him with your hand or look down at him as he may think that his jumping behaviour as acceptable
When he tries other methods such as sitting or fetching his toys to get your attention, praise him immediately and calmly so as not to excite and encourage the dog to jump.
If jumping does NOT stop at this time, walk away from him, which may mean leaving the room and not allowing the dog to follow you.
After two to three minutes, return to the room. Your dog should greet you in a calmer manner.
Method 2 – Using Physical Correction
Say ‘No’ immediately when the dog jumps.
Gently tugs the leash on the dog in a downward motion; or
Squirting the dog with water though some dogs love such action
Sit the dog and praise him for doing so
To train your dog to properly greet your guests at the front door:
Keep a spare leash or collar by the front door
When a guest arrives, immediately put the dog on leash
Put the dog in a sit-and-stay position by the front door
Invite the guest in
If the dog jumps on guest, say ‘No’, gently tug the leash to pull him off the guest, put him in his sit position again and praise him
Remember to have plenty of daily practices at the front door with the dog when there are no visitors. Open and close the door often enough for your dog to get used to the action. Then proceed to knocking at the front door and ringing the bell while keeping your dog in a sit-stay position all the while.
Such practices will help the dog to reduce his jumping, lessen his excitement and excessive barking at the front door.
And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!
You Can Do It!
To your success in dog training
Dog Training Hand Signals
Dog Training Hand Signals should be a chapter in every dog training manual. Training your dog to respond to hand signals can be fun to teach and very easy for your dog to learn, understand and obey
Read More..
PAWliday shopping made easy!!!
A special PAWliday shopping event!
Sunday December 21st
12:00 PM - 2:00 PM
~Natural Balance goodie bag give-away~
~hassle free parking~
To celebrate this holiday season, THE INQUISITIVE CANINE is making shopping easy and budget friendly. This SUNDAY December 21st from 12:00 noon to 2:00 PM all merchandise is on sale!
Thats right! All merchandise including Easy-Walk Harnesses, Kong toys, treat bags, bones and dog treats will be marked down 10% - 40%!!! What a great opportunity for you to shop for your own dog, as well as the other canine friends in your life!
We appreciate your business, and hope you to see you this Sunday!
Happy Pawlidays!
Joan and The Inquisitive Canine
JOAN MAYER
THE INQUISITIVE CANINE, LLC
2159 Palma Drive, Suite D
Ventura, CA 93003
O: 805.650.8500
F: 805.650.8501
joan@theinquisitivecanine.com
www.inquisitivecanine.com
THE INQUISITIVE CANINE, LLC
2159 Palma Drive, Suite D
Ventura, CA 93003
O: 805.650.8500
F: 805.650.8501
joan@theinquisitivecanine.com
www.inquisitivecanine.com
Dog Behavior and Exercise a look at before and after
My friend Emilia just emailed me a great photo of her dog Nellie. They were in my Manners Class this last Autumn, along with Nellies dad Nick. Nellie is an absolute sweetheart! Friendly as can be, totally outgoing, motivated to learn, pays attention in class! Her mom and dad have always said she has lots of energy, and that sometimes its hard to deal with, as you can see from this picture... You can also check out her energy level on my "chewing illegal items" post. 
Well they went on a little getaway where Nellie was able to run like the wind forever and a day... and when she got home she could barely chew her dinner let alone get into mischief. This is living proof why our domestic dogs need more exercise than they often receive. As I often say in my classes and privates: A tired dog is a happy dog, and a happier owner! A pictures worth a thousand words... and proof of how good a run-around session really is!
Do protein levels in dog food matter
Like everything else in the dog behavior world the answer is, well that depends. Ive been searching for a while for information regarding protein levels in dog food affecting behavior. I knew I had heard about a possible link to high protein causing or exacerbating problems like aggression and hyperactivity but I couldnt put my finger on where the info came from originally. (Though I am quite sure Dr. Dodman had spoken about the subject at the seminar I attended.) I did some internet searching here and there but nothing came back that answered my questions specifically. (Many veterinary sites are private which didnt help.)
Fast forward to a discussion with a dog food rep recently and I asked her if she had heard about the possible aggression link. She said she had some info she could send me. Well it arrived today so I am going to type out the part of the report that deals with the protein level question. This is the closest I have come to the information I was looking for. It is long because I am including the whole section because there is other info included that I found relevant to dog training as well. The references are listed in the article and included at the end of the article. I highlighted a couple tidbits I found interesting.
This is an excerpt from "Dietary effects on canine and feline behavior" by Katherine A. Houpt, VMD, PhD and Steven Zicker, DVM, PhD. (Taken from The Veterinary Clinics Small Animal Practice book 2003)
Effect on canine aggression:
An interesting effect of food on behavior is the motivation of dogs for different foods. A hierarchy can be constructed based on the frequency with which dogs display aggression over a particular food. Most dogs aggressively defend rawhides. Next in attraction is any human food, bones, and toys. A few dogs guard their ordinary ration of food, and fewer still protect their water dish. (Fig. 1) From the blog author: Figure 1 is a bar graph showing the percentage of dogs that guard, to the resources listed with the highest bar at Rawhide, table, bone, toy, biscuit, dog food, and water in descending order. Table equaled human food.
A standard instruction to owners of aggressive dogs is to obtain dominance over the dogs by eating before the dog is fed. Forcing the dog to wait to be fed results in more food begging and general unruliness at dinnertime. Furthermore, it seems highly unlikely that the dogs equate the people seated at the table eating salad with a fork and drinking wine from a glass with a pack of dogs vying for a bite from a carcass. In fact, Jagoe and Serpell [14] found that dogs that were fed after their owners were more likely to be aggressive to strangers.
There have been two studies directly testing the hypothesis that higher protein diets lead to aggression. The first compared scores for two types of aggression and hyperactivity. The types of aggression were territorial and dominance. Owners scored the dogs on a 10-point scale, where 0 was no aggression and 10 was uncontrollable aggression when strangers entered the house (territorial) or when the dog bit, lunged at, or chased family members, becoming worse with disciplined (dominance) in many circumstances.
The diets were 10%, 25%, and 32% protein, which corresponds to 2, 3, or 4 g of protein per kilogram of body weight, and were fed for 2 weeks. Fat was substituted for protein in the lower protein diets. There was no significant effect on dominance aggression and a trend toward decreased aggression when the dogs were fed the higher protein diet. Aggression toward strangers was significantly greater when the dogs were fed the higher protein diet. Within that group were dogs that were offensively aggressive and dogs that were defensively (or fearful) aggressive. The fearful dogs improved most when fed the lower protein diets. Control dogs were scored for the same behavior and showed no change in score with diet. [15]
(Sidebar by blog author: True dominance aggression tends to be directed towards the owners and NOT people outside of the home. This is one clue that helps us diagnose it as such. True dominance aggression is also the more rarely seen of all the types of canine aggression.)
In the second study, there were four diets, high (30%) and low (18%) protein with or without 1.45 g of tryptophan per kilogram of diet added to the basal diet of 0.15% tryptophan per kilogram. The significant effects were that dominant aggressive dogs fed high-protein diets without tryptophan were more aggressive than those fed the other three diets and that dogs fed the low-protein diet plus the tryptophan were less territorially aggressive. There were no dietary effects on fearfulness, hyperactivity, or excitability [16]. Diets formulated for dogs with renal disease and some commercial diets for normal dogs are lower in protein than the low-protein diets tested and may be more effective. On the basis of the Dodman et al [15] and DaNapoli et al [16] studies, lower (18%) protein diets should be recommended for aggressive dogs. This is in contrast to earlier suggestions that high-protein diets might improve behavior [17].
The reason why low-protein diets and tryptophan may reduce aggression is that tryptophan is the precursor of serotonin; it is converted by tryptophan hydroxylase to 5-hydroxytryptophan, which in turn, is converted to 5-hydroxytryptamine or serotonin. Serotonin is a neurotransmitter associated with feelings of well-being and satiety. Tryptophan is found in low concentration (<1%) in most protein sources. It must compete with other large neutral amino acids for a common blood-brain barrier transporter mechanism. Increasing dietary tryptophan increases brain serotonin. The lower the protein level the diet, the higher is the ratio of tryptophan to large neutral amino acids and tryptophan transport to the brain. Tryptophan has been shown to decrease aggression in chickens [18] and primates [19]. Care must be taken when adding amino acids to a diet however, because an imbalance in amino acids and consequent anorexia could result [20].
[14] Jagoe J, Serpell J. Owner characteristics and interactions and the prevalence of canine behavior problems. Appl Anim Behav Sci 1996; 47:31-42.
[15] Dodman NH, Reisner I, Shuster L, et al. Effect of dietary protein content on behavior in dogs. JAVMA 2000; 217:376-9
[16] DeNapoli JS, Dodman NH, Shuster L, et al. Effect of dietary protein content and tryptophan supplementation on dominance aggression, territorial aggression, and hyperactivity in dogs, JAVMA 2000; 217:504-508.
[17] Campbell WE, Behavior problems in dogs. Santa Barbara (CA): American Veterinary Publications; 1975
[18] Shea MM, Douglass LW, Mench JA. The interaction of dominance status and supplemental tryptophan on aggression in Gallus domesticus males, Pharmacol Biochem Behav 1991; 38:587-91
[19] Mehlman PT, Higley JD, Faucher I, et al. Low CSF 5-HIAA concentrations and severe aggression and impaired impulse control in nonhuman primates. Am J Psychiatry 1994; 151:1485-91
[20] Gietzen DW, Duke CM, Hammer VA. Amino acid imbalance, a nutritional model: serotonin & mediation of aversive responses. Physiol Behav 1991;49:981-5.
Now I know there is some discussion on the TYPE of protein being important. These tests were done with dogs using a kibble based diet. I know raw feeders do not typically find this a concern because of the difference in how the protein is digested and processed. If anyone has more recent studies to refer to I would love to hear about them.
Read More..
Fast forward to a discussion with a dog food rep recently and I asked her if she had heard about the possible aggression link. She said she had some info she could send me. Well it arrived today so I am going to type out the part of the report that deals with the protein level question. This is the closest I have come to the information I was looking for. It is long because I am including the whole section because there is other info included that I found relevant to dog training as well. The references are listed in the article and included at the end of the article. I highlighted a couple tidbits I found interesting.
This is an excerpt from "Dietary effects on canine and feline behavior" by Katherine A. Houpt, VMD, PhD and Steven Zicker, DVM, PhD. (Taken from The Veterinary Clinics Small Animal Practice book 2003)
Effect on canine aggression:
An interesting effect of food on behavior is the motivation of dogs for different foods. A hierarchy can be constructed based on the frequency with which dogs display aggression over a particular food. Most dogs aggressively defend rawhides. Next in attraction is any human food, bones, and toys. A few dogs guard their ordinary ration of food, and fewer still protect their water dish. (Fig. 1) From the blog author: Figure 1 is a bar graph showing the percentage of dogs that guard, to the resources listed with the highest bar at Rawhide, table, bone, toy, biscuit, dog food, and water in descending order. Table equaled human food.
A standard instruction to owners of aggressive dogs is to obtain dominance over the dogs by eating before the dog is fed. Forcing the dog to wait to be fed results in more food begging and general unruliness at dinnertime. Furthermore, it seems highly unlikely that the dogs equate the people seated at the table eating salad with a fork and drinking wine from a glass with a pack of dogs vying for a bite from a carcass. In fact, Jagoe and Serpell [14] found that dogs that were fed after their owners were more likely to be aggressive to strangers.
There have been two studies directly testing the hypothesis that higher protein diets lead to aggression. The first compared scores for two types of aggression and hyperactivity. The types of aggression were territorial and dominance. Owners scored the dogs on a 10-point scale, where 0 was no aggression and 10 was uncontrollable aggression when strangers entered the house (territorial) or when the dog bit, lunged at, or chased family members, becoming worse with disciplined (dominance) in many circumstances.
The diets were 10%, 25%, and 32% protein, which corresponds to 2, 3, or 4 g of protein per kilogram of body weight, and were fed for 2 weeks. Fat was substituted for protein in the lower protein diets. There was no significant effect on dominance aggression and a trend toward decreased aggression when the dogs were fed the higher protein diet. Aggression toward strangers was significantly greater when the dogs were fed the higher protein diet. Within that group were dogs that were offensively aggressive and dogs that were defensively (or fearful) aggressive. The fearful dogs improved most when fed the lower protein diets. Control dogs were scored for the same behavior and showed no change in score with diet. [15]
(Sidebar by blog author: True dominance aggression tends to be directed towards the owners and NOT people outside of the home. This is one clue that helps us diagnose it as such. True dominance aggression is also the more rarely seen of all the types of canine aggression.)
In the second study, there were four diets, high (30%) and low (18%) protein with or without 1.45 g of tryptophan per kilogram of diet added to the basal diet of 0.15% tryptophan per kilogram. The significant effects were that dominant aggressive dogs fed high-protein diets without tryptophan were more aggressive than those fed the other three diets and that dogs fed the low-protein diet plus the tryptophan were less territorially aggressive. There were no dietary effects on fearfulness, hyperactivity, or excitability [16]. Diets formulated for dogs with renal disease and some commercial diets for normal dogs are lower in protein than the low-protein diets tested and may be more effective. On the basis of the Dodman et al [15] and DaNapoli et al [16] studies, lower (18%) protein diets should be recommended for aggressive dogs. This is in contrast to earlier suggestions that high-protein diets might improve behavior [17].
The reason why low-protein diets and tryptophan may reduce aggression is that tryptophan is the precursor of serotonin; it is converted by tryptophan hydroxylase to 5-hydroxytryptophan, which in turn, is converted to 5-hydroxytryptamine or serotonin. Serotonin is a neurotransmitter associated with feelings of well-being and satiety. Tryptophan is found in low concentration (<1%) in most protein sources. It must compete with other large neutral amino acids for a common blood-brain barrier transporter mechanism. Increasing dietary tryptophan increases brain serotonin. The lower the protein level the diet, the higher is the ratio of tryptophan to large neutral amino acids and tryptophan transport to the brain. Tryptophan has been shown to decrease aggression in chickens [18] and primates [19]. Care must be taken when adding amino acids to a diet however, because an imbalance in amino acids and consequent anorexia could result [20].
[14] Jagoe J, Serpell J. Owner characteristics and interactions and the prevalence of canine behavior problems. Appl Anim Behav Sci 1996; 47:31-42.
[15] Dodman NH, Reisner I, Shuster L, et al. Effect of dietary protein content on behavior in dogs. JAVMA 2000; 217:376-9
[16] DeNapoli JS, Dodman NH, Shuster L, et al. Effect of dietary protein content and tryptophan supplementation on dominance aggression, territorial aggression, and hyperactivity in dogs, JAVMA 2000; 217:504-508.
[17] Campbell WE, Behavior problems in dogs. Santa Barbara (CA): American Veterinary Publications; 1975
[18] Shea MM, Douglass LW, Mench JA. The interaction of dominance status and supplemental tryptophan on aggression in Gallus domesticus males, Pharmacol Biochem Behav 1991; 38:587-91
[19] Mehlman PT, Higley JD, Faucher I, et al. Low CSF 5-HIAA concentrations and severe aggression and impaired impulse control in nonhuman primates. Am J Psychiatry 1994; 151:1485-91
[20] Gietzen DW, Duke CM, Hammer VA. Amino acid imbalance, a nutritional model: serotonin & mediation of aversive responses. Physiol Behav 1991;49:981-5.
Now I know there is some discussion on the TYPE of protein being important. These tests were done with dogs using a kibble based diet. I know raw feeders do not typically find this a concern because of the difference in how the protein is digested and processed. If anyone has more recent studies to refer to I would love to hear about them.
Dogs Figuring Out What Works Best The Surf is the Word
Check out this great video of Buddy the Surf Dog. Sure his dad Bruce helped teach him - but Buddy is out there figuring out how to "duck dive" just by shifting his weight back and forth on the board. Hes also determined where to position himself for "dropping in" on the wave, and avoiding running humans over. Just amazing. Im also proud to say he is my neighbor!
This just goes to show you animals do what works. Yes, dad has to get Buddy to the beach - but Buddy quickly figured out what "works" and what doesnt work. It also shows you where training and practice can get you.
Read More..
Lets apply Skinners Operant Condition Quadrant to this surfing scenario:
- Positive Reinforcement: going to the beach, catching waves, playing in the sand, hangin with his friends.
- Negative Punishment: having to go home :-(
- Positive Punishment: getting caught in the impact zone! (getting slammed by a wave)
- Negative Reinforcement: relief of being slammed by a wave...
What Is A Dog Whisperer
What Is A Dog Whisperer? That is the real question
A dog whisperer is somebody who has developed a high level of awareness & understanding of the mind & natural instincts of the dog species. This enables human & dog to form a deep connection free of the lots of constraints humans normally put in the way.
Because us humans & our canines are a different species they regularly encounter difficulties in communicating effectively with each other. They cannot sit down with them & have a conversation over a pleasant cup of coffee, like they would with our human friends. But what can they do? Ill get in to that soon after, but you could say that being a dog whisperer means that you have broken down these barriers of communication & have developed a very actual kind of way communication with canines. A dog whisperer realigns his/her methods of communication so that it matches up with & is relevant to canines.
Regrettably all of human-dog relationships in this world are way, lopsided affairs. It is usually us humans endlessly issuing commands or reprimanding our canines, seemingly oblivious to what our canines are actually feeling & trying to communicate to us. Look at it this way - think of a very dominant, overbearing person you have come across in your own life (in my case it was a boss I had a few years back). This person probably doesnt care much for the way you are feeling & what your thoughts are. They need to get their message across to you & tell you off when you dont reach their standards. When you do try to do or say something they fail to acknowledge your attempts or basically ignore you. How do you feel? frustrated.., helpless.. & probably much worse. I think lots of of our canines live in this type of restrictive surroundings every day. Our canines are constantly reaching out & trying to communicate with their human relatives, but somehow it seems to go unnoticed or at least misinterpreted.
The thing is our canines are continually speaking to us in their language. They communicate with us (& each other) through various means using energy, body language, scent, facial expression, the movement of ears & tail, overall posture & voice (barking, growling). As you can see, most of these signals or expressions are non verbal where is humans communicate in a chiefly verbal manner. What a dog whisperer does is acknowledge the difference between human & dog. A dog whisperer takes a step back, shuts up, observes & understands these gestures our canines continue to express to us. When you do this you cannot help but form a deep connection along with your dog as you will understand his desires & needs & therefore can reply in a manner which is appropriate to the situation, & is expected by your dog. You are communicating, your dog to you, & you to your dog - in lieu of merely issuing & enforcing an order & having your dog "do something for you".
When we are in this position of understanding our dogs its only logical that we are better placed to address their problems and shape their behavior. A dog whisperer treats a dog as a dog, not as a fluffy four legged human. They respect a dog for what it is and work with mother nature and the natural instincts of the canine species. Sadly most dogs arent afforded this same respect and level of understanding. Many well intentioned "dog lovers" smother their dogs with affection and the best of everything (toys, treats, fancy beds etc.) but this is not what dogs actually crave. A dog whisperer will provide the species specific, very real needs of the dog so they can live a fulfilling, peaceful, happy and well balanced life.
Read More..
A dog whisperer is somebody who has developed a high level of awareness & understanding of the mind & natural instincts of the dog species. This enables human & dog to form a deep connection free of the lots of constraints humans normally put in the way.
Because us humans & our canines are a different species they regularly encounter difficulties in communicating effectively with each other. They cannot sit down with them & have a conversation over a pleasant cup of coffee, like they would with our human friends. But what can they do? Ill get in to that soon after, but you could say that being a dog whisperer means that you have broken down these barriers of communication & have developed a very actual kind of way communication with canines. A dog whisperer realigns his/her methods of communication so that it matches up with & is relevant to canines.
Regrettably all of human-dog relationships in this world are way, lopsided affairs. It is usually us humans endlessly issuing commands or reprimanding our canines, seemingly oblivious to what our canines are actually feeling & trying to communicate to us. Look at it this way - think of a very dominant, overbearing person you have come across in your own life (in my case it was a boss I had a few years back). This person probably doesnt care much for the way you are feeling & what your thoughts are. They need to get their message across to you & tell you off when you dont reach their standards. When you do try to do or say something they fail to acknowledge your attempts or basically ignore you. How do you feel? frustrated.., helpless.. & probably much worse. I think lots of of our canines live in this type of restrictive surroundings every day. Our canines are constantly reaching out & trying to communicate with their human relatives, but somehow it seems to go unnoticed or at least misinterpreted.When we are in this position of understanding our dogs its only logical that we are better placed to address their problems and shape their behavior. A dog whisperer treats a dog as a dog, not as a fluffy four legged human. They respect a dog for what it is and work with mother nature and the natural instincts of the canine species. Sadly most dogs arent afforded this same respect and level of understanding. Many well intentioned "dog lovers" smother their dogs with affection and the best of everything (toys, treats, fancy beds etc.) but this is not what dogs actually crave. A dog whisperer will provide the species specific, very real needs of the dog so they can live a fulfilling, peaceful, happy and well balanced life.
Picture this all too common scenario. You arrive home from a hard day at the office to find that your beloved dog has once again chewed up the cushions that were nicely decorating the sofa. Youre angry. In a raised voice you swear at him/her and tell him how disappointed you are. You then throw your shoe at him as you bend down to pick up the mess. As you are blowing off steam your dog is avoiding you, head down low, eyes looking up almost sheepishly, with tail firmly tucked between his hind legs.
At this point many dog owners look at their dog and say "look at the little bugger, he knows what hes done wrong, just look at how guilty he looks". This is the wrong conclusion to make. Your dog doesnt think like that (like a human) and he doesnt have a clue what you are rambling on about. He makes no connection between the chewed up cushions and your mood.
Dogs live in the present moment, so what he is picking up on and reacting to is your angry energy, raised voice and threatening body language. He may have also learned what the consequences are when you arrive home in this type of mood - he was probably waiting for the shoe to come his way! This scenario is an example of how us humans and our dogs view the very same situation from an entirely different perspective. Dog whispering is about understanding and recognizing that these differences exist, then acting accordingly.
The Use of Physical Punishment in Dog Training The Dark Half
Had a call from a wonderful dog guardian today looking for a dog training class here in Ventura that not only uses "positive reinforcement" but that avoids the use of items such as prong collars and choke chains. Whoo boy did she come to the right place!!! I was happy that this certified professional dog trainer could offer her just what she wanted! I felt like contradicting Mick and telling this person "You CAN always get what you want!"
Read More..
We had a nice chat about the types of training techniques I use to teach both the dogs and dog training students. She was thankful and relieved that my dog training classes use humane methods - so much so that she has pre-registered for my January 2010 dog training Good Manners class - This is something I find reinforcing!
She then told me that the first class she took her dog to talked about using rewards, but they also used aversives such as those icky collars I mention above. That type of equipment often includes other types of coercive methods such as collar corrections and alpha rolling. Yikes!!! Thats like someone slapping you then buying you flowers. Sorry - I wouldnt learn much of anything, except to be afraid for my life.
This lovely person understood why the use of inhumane compulsive methods to teach another animal doesnt make sense, but today I thought it would be useful to help educate those who are still unclear of what these intimidating, bullying, abusive methods can lead to. I have it written out very clearly in my dog training Manners Class workbook, but here is the gist:
- What exactly is an aversive? An aversive is an event, or change in the environment that an animal finds unpleasant, and seeks to avoid.
- Positive punishment is the start of anything the animal finds unpleasant, and negative reinforcement is the termination of anything unpleasant. In other words, something unpleasant either starts or stops. The animals motivation with either of these is prevention or cessation of something unpleasant.
For punishment to be effective, several requirements must be met:
- Punishment must be immediate each and every time! Timing! (Gotta be Johnny on the spot!)
- Punishment must follow each and every time the behavior occurs. Consistency! (Honestly, are you around every time to deliver the punishment for the behavior youre trying to eliminate?)
- Punishment must be severe enough for it to work the first time. (Are you really able to deliver something that severe? It needs to be in order for it to actually work!)
- Punishment should change the dogs behavior. (Hey, if it didnt work after one time its not working!)
- Punishment must me doable by the owner. (Can you? Really?)
- Dog can begin to associate the aversive with the presence of the owner (or punisher).
- Can lead to learned helplessness - stops trying anything for fear of being punished.
- Punishment only tells the dog what you don’t want.
- Punishment is inappropriate for dogs with underlying fear issues.
- Punishment might not generalize the cessation of the specific behavior. If given the opportunity to perform the behavior in areas where the dog wasn’t punished, they may do just that.
- Punishment tends to generalize the underlying fear towards any similar environmental situations.
Although this type of punishment can work, and often provide an immediate release of anger and frustration of the person delivering the punishment (there are better coping skills), there is often only a temporary toning down of the behavior the person is initially trying to change. Plus, they only focus on what you don’t want, and not the behavior you want the animal to perform.
Why not avoid all of this nasty stuff and stick to the KISS principle of dog training? It works, its easy, and its fun...for both the dog and the human! Plus, you end up getting what you want!
A sight for sore eyes
What a lovely and heartwarming sight to see... I LOVE when I witness dog owners practicing those techniques I teach in my classes...whether they are students of mine or not... Just today I saw two different dog owners providing love and attention AND yummy treats from their pockets when their dogs were sitting and paying attention to them as distractions were all around. Just brilliant! Perfect timing in the delivery and perfect techniques. My heart is still singing... Wouldnt it be great if we did this with our dogs AND with each other all the time??? Well, for me, its one dog at a time...but it seems were getting there :-)
Read More..
Dog Fancy Natural Dog Photo Shoot and treats!
Yesterday was Splash!s photo shoot for Dog Fancy/ Natural Dog. She will be on the full page cover of the June issue of Natural Dog, which is on the flip side of Dog Fancy. I was so impressed with my little girl, who had to pose for what seemed FOREVER perched on rocks in the river and above little waterfalls, without getting to touch the water even once. WATER is irresistible to Splashers, so she did very well. At the end of the shoot, she got to dive into the water and then preceded to have major Border Collie Zoomies while the camera crew stood back in awe. 
Read More..
I was also sent some treats in the mail regarding the Starpet contest in NY, cute! There she is with Milo the kitty on the label.
Food Stuffing Type Dog Toys What the heck do I do with this thing
You may have purchased one of those great interactive food stuffing toys for your dog, right? Maybe one of those red cone-shaped ones from the Kong Company? And you put some of your dogs kibble with a little peanut butter in it, gave it to him or her, and left it at that. But what now? What else can you do with it? OMG theres just SO much! As a matter of fact, I teach an entire class on stuffing food toys, and other types of "enrichment" at my inquisitive canine studio.
Read More..
I love feeding my own dog Poncho out of these, and other "interactive" food toys. He enjoys eating his meals out of them as well - I can tell because he goes into his "whirling dervish" mode every time I get one out of the freezer...yes, the freezer - hes at what I call "University Level". Pre-school would be dry kibble topped off with a little wet food.
The Kong Company is nice enough to supply you with lots of tips and advice on great ways to use your dogs Kong toys. For me, I like coming up with my own "recipes" (okay, I think of them more of concoctions) with anything and everything that is either leftover from me and my hubby, or whatever I find in the fridge that needs to be eaten.
Because the Kongs are relatively small on the inside, you arent able to put an entire meal in just one. So, like we humans have sets of dishes, I have purchased a few Kongs of the same size and consider them Ponchos "dishes". I might just give him one, along with his other favorite food toy the Tricky Treat Ball. And of course he gets his veggies in his bowl - there are some veggies in his Kong mixture, but most of them end up in his bowl...I think the veggies are the only thing Ill feed him from his bowl.
Okay, so what all do I put in it? And how do I do it? Simple...for the easiest "recipe" I combine the following ingredients*:
- Kibble (high quality like Solid Gold or Wellness)
- Canned wet food (high quality like Solid Gold or Wellness)
- Leftover veggies: canned pumpkin, zucchini, asparagus, bell peppers, carrots, peas, broccoli, cauliflower, summer squash etc...and anything else that might be around that he likes.
- Fruit: apples, pears, berries (or whatever is around that he likes)
- Grains: leftover brown rice, whole wheat pasta, couscous, quinoa, sweet and regular potatoes...and anything else leftover that he likes.
- Meat: scraps of whatever we have leftover
- Dairy: plain non-fat yoghurt
I mix it all together, making sure there is enough kibble (which has many of Ponchos doggy specific required nutrients) and wet stuff to make it the consistency of a human type chicken salad. I add a little chicken broth or water to thin it out a bit. Then, I cover and refrigerate it overnight. This way, the kibble soaks up the water from the veggies etc...makes it a little stiffer, for easier stuffing.
Now Im ready to prepare Ponchos meals. I take one of his Kong toys, and using a small fork or spoon, I fill it tightly with his "casserole". I then wrap it in plastic wrap, and put it in the freezer. This way, I can make a whole bunch of them, and keep them for when I need them. When theyre frozen, it takes him longer to go through one...instead of gulping down a meal in 10 seconds!
If youre just starting out, youll want to have your dog go through all the "stages" - beginners level (pre-school) to "University". If you start with a more difficult level, your dog might get frustrated and not want anything to do with it. Making it easy gets him or her conditioned to loving their Kong. They begin to associate the toy with more excitement than just the food itself. Its a fun game for them - plus again, this action taps into their predatory drive, and gives them something to do!
Here are some "level of difficulty" suggestions, which are based upon how quickly your dog can get the food out:
- Beginner: dry kibble (can add in some dry treats to make it extra tasty and enticing), top off hole with wet food.
- Intermediate I: mix kibble with a little wet food, add any leftovers you want, loosely pack it - you still want to make it easy for food to come out.
- Intermediate II: kibble, wet food, any leftovers you want to add, pack it tight.
- Advanced: Freeze it! Initially you can thaw it partially before giving it to your dog, so as not to make it too difficult.
Remember: there are some foods that are not healthy or safe for your dog - check with your vet if you are unsure. If youre dog has never had a Kong, its best to supervise until you know he or she know how to "use it".
Langganan:
Postingan (Atom)