Oodles of POODLES!!

So, after the wolf-dog didnt work out, guess what I stumbled upon? A bouncing pair of five month old standard poodle puppy brothers who needed a family! We had such a great experience with our first standard poodle, Fifi, I had a feeling we should at least go visit and check them out. They are are very bonded to one another and Dave and I didnt have the heart to break them up, so...we took both! They are a joyful addition to our family, and all of the other pets and people love them dearly already. I have named then Jean Claude and Philippe and they are sweet, smart, loving, playful, and PERFECT! I cant wait for you to meet them :)










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Preying on the ignorant Puppy buyer beware!


So last week at work a new client came in with a "Buttercup" puppy. What is a Buttercup you ask? I have no idea. The puppy cost $1200 so it must be a real breed though right? Google wasnt much help either. Tho I did find a discussion of the "breeder" in question. First here is a link to her website: http://www.buttercuppuppies.com When some people asked her a few questions on her "breeding practices" in an online forum here is what she replied:
"This is for people who think I am a bad person for breeding dogs and even for "mixing" them. Believe me, I hear from them. This is America and we have the freedom to choose whatever kind of dog we want. Many mixes are very beautiful as you can see on my Previous Puppies Page. Many people think they are better than pure breeds. They are not raised "puppy mill" style as you can read on some of my other pages. I am free as an American to pursue happiness and this is what I enjoy doing. To these people, please dont bother emailing me or calling me. "

Sincerely,
Maryjo
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Wow, way to make being an American and the pursuit of happiness look super awful. Just because you can do something doesnt mean you should. Oh wait, but if it makes YOU happy........ (and fattens your wallet)
From her website the breeds she currently raises and their "adoption" price:

Maltipoo (Maltese/Poodle) $900.
Maltichon (Maltese/Bichon) $900.
Also known as Teddy Bears!
Maltese/Westie $700. (my husbands
favorite!)
English Munchkins $900. (small)
Maltese/Doxin $900. (very tiny)
Maltese $1200. purebred (cant live
without them!)
Buttercups $1200. (cant live without
them either!)

Maltese and Buttercup teacups are
$2000.
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Yegads!! People are spending ALOT of money for a mixed breed dog they can find on petfinders and in shelters! But wait, HER dogs are healthy, non-shedding and hypoallergenic. They also dont bark, love kids, NEVER growl and dont need ANY vaccines. They sound magic dont they? Im sure if you ask her she also has a bridge somewhere for sale.
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It is frustrating because people these days have SO many ways to do their research when it comes to buying a dog from a breeder. WHY do we need to keep pointing out what a back yard breeder is? She says she isnt a puppymill but with all those "breeds" she has available she must have quite a few dogs at her home. I know a REAL holistic/natural breeder. I can guarantee you she does vaccines on her puppies. (appropriately) They are just so many things on that website that raise red flags it is incredible that people buy from her. And they must or she wouldnt be able to continue doing it!
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We see people at my job all the time who seem to be well educated fall for these breeder scams. That is what astounds me. Is it because surfing the internet is so easy? What part of give me your credit card number and Ill ship you a puppy sounds ok to a person?? Do you want fries with that? I honestly can see why so many shelter people hate breeding. Breeders like this give responsible breeders a bad name.
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Reminder No Class at the Bolingbrook Park District tonight!

See you next week :)
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Therapy dogs and reading

Lets give a BIG shout-out to the Ventura County H.P. Wright Library! Why? Because of their "Paws for Reading" program. How wonderful it was to find out they offer such a delightful program to the children of our community - and to the many Canine Good Citizens and their humans too. Improving reading skills, as well as building self-confidence (for both the children and the dogs, right?) Plus, its just downright fun! 

For additional information on the library program, or to schedule an appointment contact Star Soto, Childrens Librarian. For more information on how your dog can become a Canine Good Citizen you can contact me. 
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Reach for the sky

“The greater danger for most of us lies not in setting our aim too high and falling short; but in setting our aim too low, and achieving our mark.”- Michelangelo
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Interactive Dog Training Game That’s Fun and Rewarding for Both Owner and Dog A Pawsitive Solution for Dog Training!

Im off to a trade show in Las Vegas today, but I first had to share my latest press release. Ive been blogging about my new interactive dog training game and how its great for dogs of all ages and skill levels - not to mention its fun for both you and your dog

So please check out my our new press release and feel free to pass it along to anyone you think might be interested in this positive solution to dog training!

Inquisitive Canine’s Interactive Dog Training Game is Fun and Rewarding for Both Owner and Dog

Developed by distinguished dog trainer Joan Mayer, the Out of the Box Dog Training Game is an easy, simple and enjoyable way for you and your dog to play your way to canine good manners!

Ventura, CA - With 39% of U.S. households owning at least one dog, the common reality for many people today is that they just don’t have the time, money, or energy to invest in dog training or coaching their dogs to develop and maintain good manners.

The Out of the Box Dog Training Game was developed by acclaimed dog trainer and behavior coach Joan Mayer as a practical and affordable way for pet owners to positively reinforce real-world manners in their dogs while helping them create stronger bonds with their dogs for life.

This positive dog training solution was designed to go beyond traditional dog obedience training by emphasizing the importance of understanding canine behavior so that dog owners can successfully reinforce the behaviors they want, while limiting and preventing inappropriate habits.

“This interactive dog training game is highly effective because it employs established dog training techniques that reward and motivate both owner and dog,” said Mayer, founder of The Inquisitive Canine in Ventura. “I’ve created this pawsitive dog training solution as an easy, simple, and enjoyable way for dog lovers to raise a healthy and happy pet. By making dog training fun, you and your dog are learning - and you don’t even know it!”

The Out of the Box Dog Training Game includes:
  • 56 activity cards that address real world manners such as loose leash walking, doorbell etiquette, techniques for building confidence and enhancing socialization, and activities that fulfill a dog’s innate needs while helping them adapt to our human environment
  • An 18-page Guide Booklet that includes everything from dog training technique instructions to tips on which rewards will best motivate your dog to learn
  • Scorecard to help you and your dog play your way to canine good manners

“The game is designed for dogs of all ages and can be played just about anywhere and at anytime that works in your daily routine - making dog training less overwhelming and more enjoyable,“ said Mayer, who also authors the dog advice column Dear Inquisitive Canine. "Since each dog training activity can be customized for specific needs and adapted to different learner levels to help advance your dog’s skills, the game is different every time you play!”

The Out of the Box Dog Training Game can be purchased online at http://www.inquisitivecanine.com/dog-training-game.php

The Inquisitive Canine is dedicated to empowering dog owners with a rewarding education that will help them further develop and enhance their everyday relationships with their dogs. The Inquisitive Canine specializes in dog training methods that focus on understanding canine behavior and teaching dogs through techniques that reward and motivate. For more information on private dog training, group classes, virtual dog training or the Out of the Box Dog Training Game, please visit http://www.Inquisitivecanine.com/ or call (805) 650-8500.

Also, please visit our web site to check out more news from the Inquisitive Canine.
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The Benefits of Doing It Yourself

The Benefits Of Doing It Yourself

October 5, 2009 by admin
Filed under Getting Ready to Train Your Dog
1 Comment
There are people, many of them, who make a living from training dogs. They will take your dog for a period of time each week and teach it commands, behaviors and tricks that will make you clasp your hands in joy, and yet the thing about this is that most people don’t want to do things that way. As much fun as it may be to inherit a dog who will behave like you’d always dreamed a dog could behave, it takes away something that should be there between humans and dogs – the connection that makes humans and dogs such great partners in crime (metaphorically).
It takes longer to train a dog if you have no experience of doing it, and this is why many people are prepared to part with hard-earned cash to allow a professional to train their pet. For some of us, this kind of expense is prohibitive, and for others it may be more than affordable but a needless waste. We want to train our dogs, ourselves, because they are ours. Where is the fun in leaving it to someone else?
There is also the fact that in training your dog, you build a bond with it. many dogs will react strongly to their masters’ voice, while not paying heed to the same commands from others. Although a professional dog trainer will take every care to ensure that your dog learns the command and not the voice, there is undeniably something important about being the one from whom your dog learns to sit, stay and roll over. It is the all-important connection.
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And her name is Jenny too

Check out our newest addition to the K-9 Corrections program. She is a redbone coonhound mix about 5 months old. Dont forget you can also follow the dogs (and handlers) progress on facebook. Special thanks to The Loyal Biscuit Co. for the donation of some great martingale collars for the dogs on the program. We appreciate the support!!
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Improve Your Dogs Manners at the Door!

So, with the flu in full-bloom, and classes shut down as a precautionary measure, Im sure my dog students (and their humans!) could use some training inspiration. I know you have all worked on some of this, but here is an entire, blow-by-blow, breakdown of steps to practice to get your dogs door manners up to speed. If you try it, please make a video recording of your best effort and share it on your blog! Or, send it to me, and I may share it on mine :)

Improve Your Dog’s Behavior at the Door 

Peggy Moran


Before Starting:


On Your Marks! Be sure you have “charged your mark” using classical conditioning. To do this pair a novel stimulus, such as a sound (we use a “clicker” as our marking device) paired with a reward that immediately follows (we like to initially use very high value food rewards, such as small bits of cooked meat). You can add other mark/ reward pairings to your training toolbox. For example, we use an enthusiastic “yes!” with a toy that we toss or offer and tug; warmly stated “good job” with petting; and enthusiastic “okay!” with freedom. You will sound your mark at the exact instant your dog performs a wanted (by you) behavior, immediately followed by the associated promised reward. This will help your dog want to repeat that preceding action!

Get Set! You need to work on your training too, and it can be challenging to break old habits. One of the hardest new pieces of advice our students struggle with is NOT TALKING! Be aware, we do not add spoken word cues until later in the training; in the meanwhile what you do in a given situation becomes the cue! Since dogs don’t speak words anyway, it is best to build cues right into your training situations, and let body language—your dog’s first language!—do the talking for you. Later we do add spoken cues to use as prompts, but that happens only once your dog has gotten really good at a wanted behavior pattern. Adding the cue too early associates the cue with a less-than-perfect version of the behavior. I know it is hard, but try to keep as quiet as possible, other than marking and praising wanted behaviors.

Go! Follow these steps, practicing with patience, affection, and well-timed marking and rewards, and soon your dog will have the best door manners you could ever imagine:

1. Encourage your on-leash dog to approach the closed door, using a hand target (palm facing dog, back of hand touching the door at dog’s nose height); as dog touches your hand (or with a beginner, makes effort in the right direction), click and reward.

2. Touch and rattle your doorknob, then toss a bit of food away from the door. Mark as your dog moves toward the food. You may opt to use a throw rug as a designated “place” for your dog to go in response to the doorknob/ back up cue, in which case toss the food onto the rug and mark when the dog contacts it. As this behavior gradually evolves through shaping, you can move the “place” further back, or shape for a sit or down response. Repeat 1, 2 pattern many times in a row.

3. Open your door, and begin immediately backing away from the open door until your dog turns to face and follow you; click and reward. Repeat 1,2,3 pattern many times in a row.

4. Progress to open door, and prompt let’s go as your dog crosses the threshold; immediately stop and loop her back into the house without saying anything; click and reward inside the house. Repeat step 4. many times in a row.

5. Proceed toward the open door holding the leash loosely in your left hand; as you step out the door don’t say anything nor obstruct your dog; but do counter your dogs urge to from follow you across the threshold by repeating your earlier tossing of treats to coincide with your step across (barely!) the door threshold; click and reward your dog for NOT going outside without a permission prompt. Practice a pattern of 4,4,4,5 many times in a row.


Adding New Door-Related Challenges:


Alternate door stimuli/ triggers:


A-1. After step 2, above, knock slightly on your own door frame, and deliver an immediate food reward. This is a classical conditioning exercise, and does not require you to click before delivering the food reward. In this case the knocking will become a new “click”. Repeat MANY times; if your dog becomes overly reactive, or too distracted to accept food, reduce the intensity or duration of your knocking. You may have to just lightly tap once, to start. Gradually build up intensity, with the goal being to keep your dog under threshold.

A-2. Repeat the above exercise using your doorbell. You may need to begin with a family member ringing the doorbell as you give the food reward. Repeat many times, while behaving cheerfully each time the bell rings. Ignore any reactivity, such as barking, and deliver food regardless of the dogs mood and/ or behavior. The goal is not to reward certain behaviors (or the absence of unwanted ones); it is to change the way the dog perceives the doorbell, converting it to a conditioned stimulus that signals “food is coming!”. Your dog’s behavior will change for the better once the dog has a new, food-expectant rather than defensive, emotional response to the stimulus.

A-3. Shape your dog’s behavior, using the knock or the doorbell ring as a signal to go to “place”. following the steps from 2, above.

Guests at the door:


Note: The following practices are only appropriate for dogs who are friendly with strangers.

G-1. A training helper may perform the role of a visitor at the door; follow steps 1,2 and 3, above; at 3, as you open the door, invite your guest to come in, and proceed to back away until your dog follows you, disallowing greeting/ jumping all over your guest; click and reward.

G-2. Proceed toward the guest, and as you draw close, click and drop a food reward at your guest’s feet.

G-3. Back away again, then repeat step G-2 many times.

G-4. During one of your approaches to your guest, give them a handful of your food rewards. After repeating G-3 several times, approach the guest, click, and allow them to place the food reward on the floor in front of their feet. Ask them to temporarily refrain from petting or speaking to your dog. Repeat several times.

G-5. Approach the guest, click and allow the guest to hand-deliver the food reward. Repeat several times.

G-6. Repeat all of the above steps, but do so with your dog in “place”, with your guest approaching your dog, rather than your dog approaching the guest.

Practice frequently, and enjoy your dog!

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Finally some “Bling” for the humans or your dog

For all of those who have spent time at The Inquisitive Canine dog training studio here in Ventura, guess what? I am now offering some “bling bling” for the humans! It’s not all about toys, treats, and bones any longer! Yep, now YOU can find something for yourself too! I am now offering two different, beautiful, and unique custom jewelry lines. One is geared more towards female humans, and the other - for anyone, pets too (you can get a fun charm for your dog or cat to wear on their collar). After all, it is really all about our pets, isn’t it?  

  • The first is called Dream Lake Jewelry Owned by my friend Carole who lives in Vermont...she and her daughter are both very talented artists. Check out the site, (or my lovely custom bracelet the next time you’re in...) 
  • The second,  Planet Jill is one that I found back in 2002... I fell in love with the pieces and wanted to offer it to everyone else. A custom photo jewelry and accessory line owned by the wonderful and creative Jill Schiff. She has a great team that will help create the perfect piece for you and your loved ones. 

I will have both on display at the studio if you would like to see the pieces in person, and to place an order. You can also order directly online... They make a perfect gift for anyone, even yourself. 

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Getting All Choked Up Over the Use of Coercion in Dog Training

Maybe its the latest applied behavior analysis class Ive just taken, maybe its the decongestant and antihistamine stupor Im in, but it occurred to me, just now, that maybe I need to try a new approach when speaking to those who still prefer to use choke, prong and Citronella collars to train their dogs.

Being of the positive reinforcement, humane, least intrusive approach to training dogs type of dog trainer, this means when I hear or see people go to the dark side, I try to get them to come on over to my camp, usually by explaining and demonstrating all of the wonderful and simple techniques such as shaping, lure and reward, with or without the use of a clicker. This is what I teach in my dog training classes, private dog training clients, and of course all throughout my dog training game!

But sometimes humans dont want to listen; I guess they might find it to be punishing. So instead of all of that, how about if I ask them this: How does it make you feel, deep down inside, when you choke, yank, coerce, yell at, berate, or cause harm to your dog just to get them to do what you want? Do you find it to be fulfilling and reinforcing to yourself? Or, as when one person called me today, do you feel bad inside about doing things like that to your dog?

If you feel bad about it, then I encourage you to dump the aversive techniques and try something different! Simple steps such as:
  • Reward behaviors you like and want! Praise, belly rubs, games of fetch and tug, or giving your dog a part of their meal - all will send a message of "I love when you do that!" And youll get more of that behavior.
  • Manage your dogs environment so theyre less likely to perform those undesired behaviors.
  • Provide outlets for your dog to let all of those doggy behaviors out!
Trust me, these three simple steps will help anyone achieve baby steps to their final goals. If you know someone who prefers the dark side, you might want to take that first step and forward them this information - who knows, you might find helping others to be reinforcing.
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The Christmas wrap up

Not a creature was stirring..............

I hope everyone had a great holiday. I had photos all set for a Christmas blog post and just couldnt bring myself to get online. I probably should have done one up ahead and set it up to post automaticly. As a matter of fact I think I stayed offline, including facebook, for a whole 2 days! It might be a record for me. (sad but true) I admit I am still behind on my e-mail. It was nice to just relax with the family.
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Zola is doing great. So great in fact she drives me crazy at times. Clearly she is feeling good. She can play for hours. If you try to ignore her she finds some way to pester you so you have to pay attention to her. She is learning it wont work. At least with me. When she gets pushy she loses her couch privileges. Of course this means I have to put her down a bajillion times. Jack and Jenny cave into her pestering and play with her most of the time. The kids are home on vacation this week so they have been helping out a lot with her and taking her out for potty breaks while I am at work. One day my son got distracted and left her in the living room unattended a little to long. Our new leather couch got a slight make over because of it. Fortunately she chewed the cushion cover in a spot it can be hidden. Hopefully I can order a new cover. I also know how much she has charmed my husband because the text I got about it was "Wait til you see what Schmoopy did today". (Schmoopy is a nickname for a puppy in the house) That or perhaps he has just given up on having nice things. VBG


Jack got a cow trachea for his Christmas nom nom, and Jenny got a wizzle. Zola isnt allowed to have those kinds of treats so she didnt get any. Dont feel to bad for her though. Since she isnt used to getting them she doesnt know what she is missing. All of them got some fabulous gifts from Prudence and The Smiling Frog. A stuffed squeeky Rudolf, a squeeky bone, a denim ball plus they all got their very own stuffed Christmas tree squeekys. I wish I had video of the hilarity that ensued. There is nothing quite so funny as watching multiple dogs try to play with all of their new toys at once.
The Rudolf toy seems to be the favorite at the moment. I think its because of the antlers. They do love to play tug! Prudences mom also made them some super yummy, and healthy, dog treats. I did let Zola have a small taste of those. (small bits) They were a big hit.


Today I went and got all the dogs liscensed for the year. I learned the hard way last time that the late fee for forgetting is ridculously high. If you have a dog that doesnt get rabies vaccinations due to health issues you can get your vet to write your dog an exemption letter. I do this for Jenny due to her allergy issues. You can only vaccinate a healthy dog after all. (or thats how its suppposed to work anyhow)
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I appoligise for not getting my holiday post up in time. Maybe next year. Now I need to think about my new years resolutions. Because I am so good at those and all. VBG What do YOU have planned for the new year?
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Defining a subjective term

I hear the words quite often...But what do they all mean? What exactly is being described? What is the message being sent? Its difficult for me, the dog trainer that comes from the "academic" "science-based" philosophy camp, to judge or determine why a dog is doing what theyre doing based on these subjective terms that owners share with me. What words am  I speaking of? Allow me to share: 
  • My dog is being dominant.
  • My dog is being alpha.
  • My dog is being controlling
  • My dog is being aggressive.
  • My dog has learned to be submissive with me. 
First off, lets see what some of the true definitions are, shall we?
  • Dominant: commanding, controlling, or prevailing over all others.
  • Alpha: something that is first.
  • Controlling: inclined to control others behavior : domineering.
  • Aggressive: tending toward or exhibiting aggression. 
  • Aggression: a forceful action or procedure (as an unprovoked attack) especially when intended to dominate or master
  • Submissive (submission): to yield oneself to the authority or will of another
Wow. I find all of these terms pretty interesting - and confusing, and frankly quite negative in describing a loved one, including our pets. I think we all understand what they mean, and how they would pertain to describing another human. But describing our dogs? Really? Okay, Ill give you "aggression". That one Ive used myself when describing dogs that would fit into my Feisty Fido class - one with dog-dog issues, or dog-stranger issues. But even a word like "aggression" can be very subjective. Whats "aggressive" to one person, might not fit that same picture to another. Geez, you should see me on the road sometimes, I can be pretty "aggressive" ;-) Ive been known to bark more than my own dog Poncho... at times. 

As for these catchy and popular terms... well, humans can use them all they want to describe their dogs behavior... but what it comes down to, and what I will ask right outta the gate when working with clients is, "what is your dog doing? Paint me a picture." Why? A few reasons are: 
  1. Subjective terms dont tell me anything substantial to correctly evaluate a situation. 
  2. The descriptions could be more about an owners own frustrations with their dogs behavior, vs the actual behavior of their dog. 
  3. Acts of "dominance" to one person could mean something completely different to someone else. 
  4. There is no exact scientific measure, standard protocol etc... of these descriptive terms. 
What are dogs really doing when people use the above descriptive terms? Is your dog bolting out the door before you? Uh, hello? Is that being "dominant" or are they just being a bit more impulsive? After all, they are dogs, right? Impulse control is usually not in their behavior repertoire. How about jumping up to greet when you get home? Is this "aggression" or just the normal greeting behavior or dogs? I believe the latter. As for "submission", well, I ask you what the underlying motivation is there when animals "submit" to us humans. Usually "fear". They dont want to "get in trouble" (yikes, dare I use this phrase...) so they provide their innate body language of "Im no threat to you." 

Regardless if you use these terms or not, its probably more important to pay attention to what your dog is doing and not try to figure out what theyre thinking... Im not clairvoyant, but Im a good history taker and can observe your dogs behavior, the details, triggers, and of course how and or why a behavior is being reinforced - by you and/or the environment. Which brings me to this important question for you to take with you today: if you think your dog is controlling you, what are YOU doing that is reinforcing the behaviors you dont like? Ouch, theres the word of the day: "accountability". 
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My vet approves this message!

Attention all puppy owners! And to those who know people with puppies and friends and family of puppies: Dr. Shelly Wilson (one rockin vet and owner of The Animal Doctor here in Ventura) has written to me that she agrees with the position statement the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior has released on early puppy socialization, and how such steps can really help with the development of a healthy and happy dog, a happy household, and prevention of behavioral issues that dogs often develop without the proper steps. 

You can always contact Dr. Wilson, DVM, one of the other doctors, or her staff if youd like additional information, or to have your dog seen for a check-up! You can also access the story by clicking here.

Just like us humans, the earlier we begin learning, enrichment, developing coping skills, and proper social skills, the better adjusted we are as adults. There is no reason why we shouldnt be doing this with our domestic puppies - as long as its done in a safe way that refrains from causing any physical or emotional harm... Check out some of the services I offer at my studio that fills this need. 


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Confessions of a weak willed dog trainer


This is a horrible photo I know. I took it with my phone. I should know better than to be without my real camera I guess. Im sure if I knew how to photo shop at all I could at least fix the glowing eyes.
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This morning a co-worker friend called and said she was going to train at Lowes with her dog Ryka, did I want to join them? Hell ya. Ive decided to take part in an upcoming dog training flash mob so we definitely need to practice a few skills. If anyone is interested, you can join the Positive Dog Training Flash Mob group on facebook here:  http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1170300640&ref=tn_tnmn#!/groups/338885719459292/ There is video being posted of the routine and training tips as well as a list of participants so you can find others near you to train with.
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I admit that I have been slacking lately with Jenny because Zola has been taking up all of my energy. Of course that is partly due to my own idiocy. Zola is still waking up in the middle of the night for a potty break. Now what I would tell a client to do, and I started doing myself, would be to take the puppy out and then re-crate and ignore any barking til they went back to sleep. What am I doing? Well after the potty break I am laying down on the couch with a pillow, blanket and puppy tucked up next to me under the blanket for the last few hours before I have to get up for work. Yeah I know. Epic fail. It actually isnt bad IF I can get back to sleep. Thing is sometimes she moves around or wakes up to go out again. I am a person that doesnt do well on limited sleep so it catches up with me. I am hoping that at some point she will sleep later and it wont be an issue anymore. Tho sometimes I think about getting her a bigger crate and putting a potty pad in one end so she has a different option than waking me up. However that could definitely set her back in the whole house training process. At the moment she usually starts circling (sometimes near the door) if she needs to go out. Do I want to ruin that progress? And what if she poos and then walks through it? I would need to add a puppy bath to my morning routine. I. Just. Need. More. Sleep.
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~Sigh~ I suppose I should just do the back in the crate thing and let her bark herself back to sleep. The only thing is, I kinda like the cuddling. So that is the real confession. I have become soft and helpless to the charms of a 10 pound puppy.
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The good news is that she seems to be doing very well. Her ammonia levels were high when we checked them last week so I had to increase her lactulose. Thankfully it hasnt caused any diarrhea which can be a problem. We will check it again in another week. I really need to get video of her and Jack on here to share. They play SO well together. It is really fun to watch. Jack is such a great big brother for her.
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By the way Ryka is a stunning Blue Heeler Cattle Dog from Cattle Dog Rescue. We had a good time at Lowes today. I am very lucky to have such a great training space close to home for when it is to chilly to work outside.
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Dog aggression – what can I do about it Dog aggression – what can I do about it

Dog aggression – what can I do about it?

It’s just pretty easy to tell when your dog’s nervy and uneasy when around strange people. The more types and different classes of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general. This is the secret to socializing your dog.

- Aggression towards strangers
- What is it?

It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s very still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1/InsomniaticDND/Website/aggression.jpg

Why does it happen? There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?

What can I do about it?

The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.

How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?

When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, its OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppy hood for the lesson to sink in.

The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general.

How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?

Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!). In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.

Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.

This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).
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Dogs Celebrating the 4th of July Can Create An Explosive Situation

I remember when I was very young going to Echo Park every 4th of July for the fireworks show. I also recall hiding under my pink blanket, tensing up, whimpering a little, all out of fear. My parents were very cautious, keeping me and my brother safe. But it didnt matter. I guess the sound of the explosives, the crowd, and all the smoke were way too much for me. 

As I got older I certainly understood the whole concept of the celebration of this festive summertime holiday, but it doesnt mean Im any less fearful. Ive been known to enjoy watching the various shows from afar...but Ill be honest, I still get a little twinge of anxiety whenever I hear the loud explosions. Maybe its because these "bombs" can cause damage and harm to all animals, and the environment. Especially when alcohol is involved.

Okay, my intention isnt to be a party-pooper...Im looking forward to going out and celebrating as well...spending time with friends and whatnot. But, as a certified professional dog trainer, and dedicated dog mom to Poncho, its my priority to keep him safe and out of harms way. 

Im sure youre planning on protecting your pets as well, but Id like to pass along a few safety tips for keeping dogs (and kitties) safe this holiday:

  • Manage your environment! If youre having a party, or going to be bringing your dog to a party, it might be best to have them confined to a specific out-of-harms-way area with proper enrichment such as chew bones or a stuffed food toy, or tethered to you with a leash. Ive said it before and Ill say it again: If something is within reach (including jumping up or climbing on tables to get it), it’s going to be investigated! Please keep any and all food items out of our reach. This includes closing the barbeque cover. Jumping up on a hot grill isn’t very smart, but some dogs haven’t learned that yet - like when kids touch a hot stove. 
  • Food items: Although some dogs have a rock-gut stomach, many others do not. Please make sure you you stick with your dogs regular diet. And ask all of the other humans to refrain from handing out snacks, no matter how much your dog begs. Some foods aren’t good for dogs and they might not know it. You can always post a reminder sign in plain view for everyone to see. 
  • BBQ Accessories: Lighter fluid, charcoal, matches, lighters: All of these items used for the barbeque are often placed in areas where many dogs like to sniff around. Please be aware of where they are placed, and to keep them out of reach from the top dog CSIs. 
  • Alcoholic beverages: Alcohol can be poisonous to dogs so please keep all beverage containers (except our fresh water) out of reach. 
  • Decorations: Candles, tiki torches, oil lamps, and other decorative products like this can be fun to investigate. Unfortunately they can cause harm if they fall over on dogs, or are eaten. So again, if your dog is running around the house, keep these items in a safe place or put away altogether.
Fireworks: First and foremost, keep them away from all pets! Exposure can cause burns and other injuries. Plus they’re very scary to most animals. To play it safe:
  • Keep all pets inside your home where it is safe. Sometimes the explosions scare us and we like to run away. 
  • ID and License: Make sure your dog (and kitties too) are wearing a collar with license and ID tag. Just in case they take off, the authorities will have a better chance of finding you.
  • Stay home or have a pet sitter: Leave your dog at home. Fireworks shows are fun for all of you humans, but for many of us dogs they’re too overwhelming. If you aren’t able to stay home with them, consider hiring a professional pet sitter or have a friend come over to hang out and comfort your pets.
  • Medications: If the anxiety is too much for your dog or cat to handle, contact your veterinarian about the various medication options for helping to reduce noise phobia anxiety. 

Another step you’ll want to take is having phone numbers and other contact information handy.

  • Animal Poison Control: If your dog or cat ingests something they shouldn’t have, you can contact the animal poison control center 24/7
  • Pet Emergency Clinic: Know in advance where the nearest 24-hour pet emergency clinic is and the fastest way to get there. This is something I was reminded of in the Pet First Aid & CPR course I just took with Denise Fleck. The day that we had to rush Poncho to our own pet emergency clinic, VMSG, we had to think very hard of how the best way to get there was. The clinic had recently relocated, and we ended up going the wrong way - this was our own fault for not planning ahead! Its also doubly important if you are traveling with your dog and are unfamiliar with the area youre in. 

I’m not a party-pooper. Trust me, I love a barbeque and a party as much as anyone. But whatever you end up doing this weekend, please make sure you take those extra steps in keeping your pets safe so you can enjoy celebrating more holidays together! 

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Dog Breeds When is the Discrimination Going to Stop

I know that dogs were bred for specific traits, and that is what makes each breed different. But there are days when I get a little vexed every time I hear someone say "My (insert name of dog breed here) is so: 
  • smart
  • stupid
  • stubborn
  • aggressive
  • dominant
  • talented
  • lazy
  • intelligent 
  • scared of everything
  • obnoxious
  • and the list goes on and on... 
because s/hes a (insert name of dog breed here, again)."

UGH! Okay, yes, there are times when Ill look at my own dog Poncho and say "Oh, youre being such a terrier!" Why? Because his behavior displays more of the "grab-shake-kill" personality - which terriers were bred for and are known for, right? But hey, Im Irish and Russian - and Im not much different than most of my non-Irish non-Russian friends... except maybe I sunburn more easily. I do however know a few Irish and Russian folks with olive skin that tan beautifully! So there ya go, once again I cant discriminate. 

I think its important that we look at our dogs as them being just that: dogs. Yes, each were bred for specific traits - but that doesnt mean they will display those specific traits. It also depends upon environment, upbringing, how behaviors are learned and reinforced... which brings me to a very important question for you: if your dog is doing something specific, are YOU the one rewarding that behavior? And then, are YOU the one blaming the dog for behaving a certain way? Hold yourself accountable before blaming their breed. No excuses for your own behavior! 

So if your dog is "smart", then I can conclude that 1) your dog is motivated to learn 2) that youre pretty darn good at teaching them 3) maybe you took them to a dog training class and learned a few things. 

If your dog is "stubborn", then maybe its because 1) you havent taught them what you wanted in a way they understand 2) you have unrealistic expectations 3) you assume because they do something once that they actually know what youre asking them to do. 4) you need to take them to a dog training class 5) youre impatient and get frustrated - which is normal human behavior, therefore, I wont think youre "stubborn". 

So before you start labeling and discriminating against dogs and their breed, ask yourself these questions: is my dog just being a dog? Have I been the one rewarding the behavior? Have I not been rewarding a behavior? Is it MY fault my dog isnt doing what I want him/her to do? 
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Cool Article on the Origin of Small Dogs


Origin of Small Dogs Pinned Down

This article from LiveScience states that origins of small dogs points to middle east several thousand years ago, as well as the fact that little dogs have a gene that larger breeds of dogs dont possess: IGF1 gene.
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Dog training for Dog Agility Scoring Methods

Dog Agility Scoring Methods

When it comes to a professional qualification test for a dog for dog agility competition, there are three main methods of operations that can be annotated - qualifying standard, time-plus-scoring offenses, and items from scoring. With basic standard score, the dog and the handler is judged against the STC, of the course, standard or when pre-determined by a judge overseeing the dog agility competition. The last option is to score points based scoring. With scoring points based on the agility of the dog participating in the competition, the winner is determined by the players, judges, and other classes.

When you participate in the sport of dog agility, chances are you’ll begin by joining a local group and handling your dog on a local course. But eventually, you may want to enter the world of master tournaments, such as the United States Dog Agility Association.

When it comes to scoring a professional trial for a dog agility competition, there are three basic ways the performance can be scored – standard scoring, time-plus-faults scoring, and points-based scoring. With standard scoring, the dog and handler are judged against the STC, or Standard Course Time that is pre-determined by a judge overseeing the agility competition. The exact time will be set according to the level of the competition, depending on if it’s a starter, advanced, or masters trial. In standard scoring with dog agility competitions, faults are still assessed a penalty.
http://www.goletavalleydogclub.org/images/siteimages/roxjumps.gif

The winner is whoever has the shortest period of time with the fewest penalties. If there’s a tie, then the fastest time wins. Time-plus-faults scoring is determined by speed. The score of the handler and dog in the agility competition is calculated by the actual time on the course plus penalties. So if the time score was 38.27 seconds on the course, but the dog incurred 9 penalties, then the score would be 47.27 seconds. In this case, the winner of the dog agility competition is whichever dog has the lowest score overall. If a tie erupts, then a jump-off is used to determine the winner.

The last scoring choice is points-based scoring. With points-based scoring in dog agility competitions, the winner is determined according to gamblers, snooker, and other classes. Judges assign values to a certain obstacle, and each performance has a time requirement. The points are accumulated throughout the obstacle course. If the dog achieves something, such as no faults, then he is given extra points for his performance in the dog agility competition.

With points-based scoring, the highest points-earner is the winner. Ties are broken using the fastest time as the key to winning the competition. As you go from beginner or starter status to masters-level champion, you’ll pick up the rules for each organization along the way.
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Dog Healthcare Skin Allergies

Dog Healthcare: Skin Allergies
The last type of cause for your dogs skin irritation is allergies. This can be the most frustrating issue to diagnose because you need to identify if the problem originates from environmental, food, or flea allergies.


Environmental allergies will often have your dog chewing his side, back, or belly creating bald inflamed patches of skin called hot spots. Does your dog like swimming in ponds, or lakes, or hang out in the rain? The frequent moisture can be a contributor, especially with dense coated dogs. A type of hot spot is moist eczema, where the skin lesions occur from moisture on the skin that remained long enough to allow bacteria to reproduce.


Different types of grass and thistles have been a common cause of flare-ups for dogs with an environmental allergy. Dust mites, or pollen could be the root of the problem. Is the lawn at the dog park sprayed with pesticides?
dog healthcare skin allergies

Environmental allergies are hard to identify without the help of proper testing. If you have ruled out any patterns of hot spots coinciding with your dogs daily activities and are still at a loss of the cause, then you can get a VARL blood test done at the vet. The VARL test results will give you the break down of the environmental distresses to your dog. It gives a ranking of 1-10 on how allergic your dog is to each plant in your area. VARL then offers specialized allergy shots customized to the results.


If it turns out your dog is allergic to sun exposure (common in white purebreds), or grass, then there are companies who design special dog sweaters, sunscreen, and boots to protect him. You can spray Betegen Spray directly on his hot spots to alleviate the burn sensation. Betegen Spray can sometimes be found without a prescription at pet stores or sold over the counter at vet hospitals.
dog healthcare skin allergies
Dog Food allergies will have your puppy chewing at the center of his paws, shaking his head due to chronic ear infections, and scratching wildly at his whiskers. Identify what kind of kibble you are feeding him. What type of treats does he eat? Is he receiving any food scraps?


Most food allergy skin irritations are derived from a hypersensitivity to the protein in the diet. To run a food trial you need to completely switch him from the protein he is currently eating to a kibble of an entirely different protein. The new food should be fed consistently for 10 to 16 weeks to see the full effect. NO treats, bones, or scraps should be given during this process because even the smallest amount of conflicting protein will totally eradicate the effects of the food trial.
dog healthcare skin allergies
Meanwhile, you should be rinsing out his ears with Chlorhexiderm Flush. You can find this at every pet store. It is always a good idea to flush his ears out before and after he goes swimming or gets bathed. Dogs have L-shaped ear canals that go beyond the reach of the common Q-tip. Water gets trapped in the lower part of the canal and this is how bacteria and yeast infections develop. Dogs with food allergies get an overgrowth of their bodys normal yeast growth so they are exceptionally prone to yeast infections in their ears. You can tell by the distinct chalky smell.
dog healthcare skin allergies
Spray the inside of his paws with Betegen Spray as often as once a day to clear up the pink inflammation. Elizabethan collars and baby socks make it harder for your dog to gnaw at his paws.


If the food allergy is out of your control, then the vet may prescribe Prednisolone, which is an anti-inflammatory steroid medication used to control the side effects of the allergy. Most are given in tapering doses. You will notice your dog having to urinate much more frequently on this med. Steroids are very powerful and can have lasting negative effects on his internal organs, especially if they are given frequently over long periods of time. If you give him Prednisolone only a few times while he is young, then the lasting effects are less risky. The vet will also give you Mometamax to drop into his ears to alleviate the inflammation and irritation. You may get some antibiotics as well. A cortisone shot will eliminate your dogs symptoms for nearly a month at a time but can be extremely harsh on his liver.
dog healthcare skin allergies
Flea Allergies can look like a rash, hot spots, or small red scabs and welts. Your dog may act obsessive with chewing and itching even if no fleas are living in his fur. Your dogs whole reaction can be ignited by only one fleabite if he has flea allergies.


It is best to use the preventative measures mentioned earlier to ensure that your dog will not have to worry about a single flea affecting him. If you have ruled out the other two allergies and are certain your dog has a flea allergy then there is no need to set up an appointment at the vet. The vet would just sell you a prescription flea shampoo but a soothing aloe and oatmeal shampoo will work just as well.
dog healthcare skin allergies
If your dogs skin and coat are not in optimal condition then the right measures should be taken to relieve your pets annoying Dermatitis inflammation. Discomfort causes stress and unease, which can lead to many other health issues. If left untreated, any skin irritation can become dangerous if it gets infected. He will thank you when he can finally sleep through the night again without having to scratch himself to shreds! End of - Dog Healthcare: Skin Allergies
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Creating Super Puppies Early Neurological Stimulation


The U.S. military did studies on raising puppies, and they found that doing certain exercises with puppies during the time of rapid neurological growth, between the puppies third and sixteenth day of life would increase the pup’s performance in later life.  They created a program called the ‘Bio Sensor’ program consisting of 5 exercises to be done once a day with the pups.   They found that not only were puppies able to cope more with stressful situations, and problem solve better than other puppies, but that they were actually physically healthier with higher cardiovascular performance, stronger immune systems, adrenal glands and heart beats.

The exercises should only be repeated once a day, as the point is to add mild stress.  More than once, and it could be overwhelming and could have the reverse effect on the puppies.  Natural handling should also be a big part of rearing puppies, and these exercises are not a replacement for that!  These exercises should be followed up by environmental enrichment, and socialization as the puppies grow.  Thanks to Dr. Carmen Battaglia who published an article on this subject, many breeders have started implementing “early Neurological stimulation” in their breeding programs.

Google: Early Neurological Stimulation and Dr. Carmen Battaglia to find his article on the Internet, which explains the exercises in greater detail.

 THIS IS VIDEO IS NOT MEANT TO PROMOTE BREEDING DOGS IN ANY WAY!

 

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3 dog training tips for dealing with dog emergencies

3 Tips For Dealing With Dog Emergencies
by Antonius Januar

Have you ever thought about what you need to do should your dog – or another dog – ever suffer a serious, life-threatening injury? What if they have a severe allergy to an insect bite or a bee sting? It’s great to know your vet’s phone number, but what if something happens during off hours? What if you don’t know where the closest emergency animal clinic is located?

Augh! Enough with the questions already, right? Any emergency is stressful and scary, and one involving that furry little four-legged member of your family is no exception. The toughest of owners can be instantly reduced to helpless balls of mush if something’s wrong with their dogs and they can’t figure out what to do.

1. Preparation is key.

The key to getting through a veterinary emergency is preparation. You may think you have that covered with a first aid kit and having the phone number to your vet handy, but what if there isn’t enough time to move your dog? You need to be well-versed in some of the more common animal emergencies just in case a situation ever arises. And hey, if a situation never arises, you’ll still feel more confident knowing that you have the ability to deal with one.

2. Know how to care for wounds.

Did you know that you shouldn’t use hydrogen peroxide on a bleeding wound? Nope. It slows clotting to the area, which means your dog could actually lose more blood than he would if you didn’t use the peroxide at all.

In fact, the best way to treat a deep, severely bleeding wound is to apply a clean cloth and hold it in place for five minutes, then tape the cloth to the wound. That original cloth should never be removed – that also slows clotting – and should instead be layered with more clean cloths if blood soaks through.

3. Know what to do about poisoning.

Did you know that certain varieties of toads, salamanders, newts, and other amphibians are poisonous if licked? Hey, guess who loves to hold little woodland critters in his mouth! Your dog.

If you notice your pup drooling, whining, and wiping at his mouth after a trip into the forest, get him to a clean water source and rinse his mouth thoroughly. While the poison can be fatal if left in the mouth, it’s fairly easy to cleanse from the tongue and glands.

Now imagine all of the scenarios that can happen to your dog, from fractured limbs to choking and everything in between. Do you really want to risk not knowing how to handle them? You don’t have to anymore, since I’ve written Secrets to a Healthy and Happy Pooch to help you learn how to cope with nearly any emergency as well as have the basis for handling all of the everyday and lifelong problems and situations you’ll face with your dog.

From choosing toys to cancer and everything in between, it’s all in the book… as well as how to create the most effective first aid kit and handle the most common emergencies. Listen, even the most experienced dog owner needs a little help and advice now and then. Secrets to a Healthy and Happy Pooch is that constant source of help and advice.
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Labrador Retriever Training – Practical Commands Training

Labrador Retriever Training – Practical Commands Training is here for you to stay. So your labrador retriever still cant understand a single command from you? Hmm... thats quite a problem, right? That your labrador retriever wont respond to anything you said or do... Well, hopefully all that is going to change soon enough, as here we are sharing this tips to help you in taking good control of your labrador retriever as soon as possible. And also soon enough you will not be needing anymore help in the next step of your labrador retriever training, because youll mastered it by time before you even know it. Oops i almost forgot to also tell you that our previous post of labrador retriever is getting quite a response, and those are : How To Brush Your Labrador Retriever, Dog Breed: Labrador Retriever, and especially Top 5 Labrador Puppy Training Basics


Stay
Labrador Retriever Training Practical Commands Training“Stay” can easily be taught as an extension of what you’ve already been practicing. To teach “stay”, you follow the entire sequence for reinforcing a “sit” or “down”, except you wait a bit longer before you give the release word, “OK!” Wait a second or two longer during each practice before saying “OK!” and releasing your dog to the positive reinforcer (toy, treat, or one of life’s other rewards).
Labrador Retriever Training Practical Commands Training
Labrador Retriever Training
If he gets up before you’ve said “OK,” you have two choices: pretend the release was your idea and quickly interject “OK!” as he breaks; or, if he is more experienced and practiced, mark the behavior with your correction sound - “eh!” - and then gently put him back on the spot, wait for him to lie down, and begin again. Be sure the next three practices are a success. Ask him to wait for just a second, and release him before he can be wrong. You need to keep your dog feeling like more of a success than a failure as you begin to test his training in increasingly more distracting and difficult situations.
Labrador Retriever Training Practical Commands Training
Labrador Retriever Training
As he gets the hang of it – he stays until you say “OK” - you can gradually push for longer times – up to a minute on a sit-stay and up to three minutes on a down-stay. You can also gradually add distractions and work in new environments. To add a minor self-correction for the down-stay, stand on the dog’s leash after he lies down, allowing about three inches of slack. If he tries to get up before you’ve said “OK,” he’ll discover it doesn’t work.
Do not step on the leash to make your Labrador Retriever lie down! This could badly hurt his neck, and will destroy his trust in you. Remember, we are teaching our dogs to make the best choices, not inflicting our answers upon them!


Come
Labrador Retriever Training Practical Commands Training
Labrador Retriever Training

Labrador Retriever Training Practical Commands Training
Labrador Retriever Training
Rather than think of “come” as an action – “come to me” – think of it as a place – “the dog is sitting in front of me, facing me”. Since your dog by now really likes sitting to earn your touch and other positive reinforcement, he’s likely to sometimes sit directly in front of you, facing you, all on his own. When this happens, give it a specific name: “come”.
Labrador Retriever Training Practical Commands Training
Labrador Retriever Training
Now follow the rest of the training steps you have learned to make him like doing it and reinforce the behavior by practicing it any chance you get. Anything your dog wants and likes could be earned as a result of his first offering the sit-in-front known as “come”.
You can help guide him into the right location. Use your hands as “landing gear” and pat the insides of your legs at his nose level. Do this while backing up a bit, to help him maneuver to the straight-in-front exactly facing-you position. Don’t say the word “come” while he’s maneuvering, because he hasn’t! You are trying to make “come” the end result, not the work in progress.
Labrador Retriever Training Practical Commands Training
Labrador Retriever Training
You can also help your Labrador Retriever by marking his movement in the right direction: Use your positive sound or word to promise he is getting warm. When he finally sits facing you, enthusiastically say “come”, mark again with your positive word, and release him with an enthusiastic “OK!” Make it so worth his while, with lots of play and praise, that he can’t wait for you to ask him to come again!


Building a Better Recall
Labrador Retriever Training Practical Commands Training
Labrador Retriever Training
Practice, practice, practice. Now, practice some more. Teach your dog that all good things in life hinge upon him first sitting in front of you in a behavior named “come”. When you think he really has got it, test him by asking him to “come” as you gradually add distractions and change locations. Expect setbacks as you make these changes and practice accordingly. Lower your expectations and make his task easier so he is able to get it right. Use those distractions as rewards, when they are appropriate. For example, let him check out the interesting leaf that blew by as a reward for first coming to you and ignoring it.

Labrador Retriever Training Practical Commands Training
Labrador Retriever Training
Add distance and call your dog to come while he is on his retractable leash. If he refuses and sits looking at you blankly, do not jerk, tug, “pop”, or reel him in. Do nothing! It is his move; wait to see what behavior he offers. He’ll either begin to approach (mark the behavior with an excited “good!”), sit and do nothing (just keep waiting), or he’ll try to move in some direction other than toward you. If he tries to leave, use your correction marker – “eh!” - and bring him to a stop by letting him walk to the end of the leash, not by jerking him. Now walk to him in a neutral manner, and don’t jerk or show any disapproval. Gently bring him back to the spot where he was when you called him, then back away and face him, still waiting and not reissuing your command. Let him keep examining his options until he finds the one that works – yours!
Labrador Retriever Training Practical Commands Training
Labrador Retriever Training
If you have practiced everything I’ve suggested so far and given your dog a chance to really learn what “come” means, he is well aware of what you want and is quite intelligently weighing all his options. The only way he’ll know your way is the one that works is to be allowed to examine his other choices and discover that they don’t work.
Sooner or later every dog tests his training. Don’t be offended or angry when your dog tests you. No matter how positive you’ve made it, he won’t always want to do everything you ask, every time. When he explores the “what happens if I don’t” scenario, your training is being strengthened. He will discover through his own process of trial and error that the best – and only – way out of a command he really doesn’t feel compelled to obey is to obey it.


Sooner or later you would know what to do with your labrador retriever because practice makes perfect, you know? And i believe you all know that, i mean everyone could write a book when they have went through anything (experience). But not most of them are doing it, only some of them, thats why they are called writer, thats a wrap, hope you find this Labrador Retriever Training – Practical Commands Training post helpful ^_^
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Here are a few reasons why one shouldn’t use Positive Punishment


Positive Punishment is defined as adding anything that will decrease a behavior (this could mean anything from saying “no!”, “eh eh”, or using physical Positive Punishment- choking, shocking, kicking, smacking etc)

Here are a few reasons why one shouldn’t use Positive Punishment:


1- Without perfect timing, intensity and consistency, the intended positive punishment actually becomes abuse.
2- The dog learns to avoid the punisher in order to do undesirable behavior.
3- It can cause irreversible emotional damage to the dog or human, even irreversible changes in the brain.
4- Positive Punishment is scientifically proven to increase stress hormones, arousal and aggression.
5- Animals habituate to positive punishment – meaning the intensity will have to keep increasing.
6- You cannot make children, dogs or anything for that matter reinforcing for a dog using Positive Punishment, you can only suppress the behaviors punished.
7- Positive Punishment causes dogs to hide their warning signs before a bite.
8- Dogs trained with punishment feel trapped when with owners, as leaving a ‘stay’ or leaving the owners side to escape from a child can cause punishment. Dogs that feel they have no escape tend to bite rather than move away.
9- Intended punishment can actually INCREASE the behavior you wished to extinguish. As attention was provided.
10- - The punisher becomes less reinforcing to be around for the dog. If you use punishment with your dog, there is no way to compete with the reinforcement value of other things in the environment. Your dog will find other stimuli in the environment more reinforcing than you because the dog has a history of punishment with being near you.
11- Dogs who are punished do not offer behaviors as readily, so they are harder to teach new obedience behaviors, sports or tricks.
12- People who use positive punishment will punish more readily in the future as it is positively reinforcing to use. Using punishment causes ones own behavior patterns to change towards dogs and people. Some people will find that they cannot stop using positive punishment even if they want to, and will need to seek help to change their behavior.

-Emily Larlham
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